– How you doing today? I wanna show you how to build this DIY farmhouse bathroom vanity. You can do it, it's easy, and we're fixing to start right now. How are you doing? I'm
Matt from 731woodworks.com. Today, we're building this, you can do it, it's not hard. Henry Ford said, "Whether you think you can" "or you can't, "you're right." If you think you can do it you will do it.
All square cuts except for this X feature which, I will show you how to lay that out, you won't even have to figure out an angle. I'll show you how to lay that out, super simple. The supplies you're gonna need for this build, If you're building one this size, so you're gonna need two 10 foot two-by-fours, one 10 foot two-by-six, and about a half a sheet of plywood.
Not really even a half for these panels on the inside. And then on the back, I used a small piece of quarter inch plywood. The sink top was provided by the customer. Simple build. So this build has a single door, has a just a bottom shelf in there. The customer will cut out the holes for the plumbing. When they get it, it's all pocket hole construction no weird joinery going on here, very simple. So the only tools you're really gonna need, drill, saw, pocket hole jig. Also some way to make a good straight cuts on plywood. Whether that be a straight edge a table saw or the Kreg Rip-Cut, which I've used in a bunch of my builds dealing with plywood. I'll drop links in the description below to all the tools and supplies using this build, so you can build it for yourself. (somber music) Who doesn't love a new project? Today we're starting one but first I have to go get some lumber, I'm gonna do that first. ♪ Try not to hold me down ♪ ♪ Feel alive, when I'm in this town ♪ ♪ Look at those beautiful stars ♪ ♪ I wanna drive a faster car ♪ ♪ Nothing can break me ♪ ♪ No no nothing can break me.
♪ You know what time it is, ♪ "Power Tip Time." So the power tip's gonna come pretty early in this video, stick around cause there's still some more good stuff coming on.
If you can buy your lumber at a local lumber store versus Home Depot, Lowe's or one of those big box stores, you're gonna get better quality lumber. Here at Allied in Minnesota, I can get number one grade pine which is really straight boards, they've got some knots and stuff in them but they're very straight, very few warped boards. I can tell these guys that I want straight ones and they help me out. So, you're not gonna find that at the big box store. So if you can shop local, you hit those local lumber stores, you'll be able to get better lumber. (garage door opening) (wood grinding) Yahoo! So I'm pretty sure I can build this.
So the customer sent me this picture said, "Hey can you make
a bathroom vanity," "that looks similar to this?" Said, "Yes, if you bring me a sink top" "I'll build it to fit," and that's what has happened. I've got the sink top here.
I'm gonna to set it on and then build it to fit that sink top. This is just a rustic farmhouse style bathroom vanity. First thing I'm gonna do is cut my legs to link, I know that the customer wants the height of the bathroom vanity to be 31 inches. So I'm gonna to cut four of the two-by-four legs 31 inches minus the height of the sink top. (saw cutting through wood) Now I'm just gonna lay this two-by-four on top of the other two-by-four make sure that the end over there is exactly flush, It is, and so I'm going to ease it back up against the blade, the top board, once it's touching make sure it's flush on the left side again.
I can move that board, make sure everything's square against the fence and make my cut. (saw cutting through wood) And I'll repeat that two more times so that I have four legs. That's pretty gnarly, so I'm gonna cut that out and I'm far enough away from those knots, it's not gonna affect. (saw cutting through wood) You always wanna cut the end off of the board so that you can get rid of any splinters and just square it up. I got four legs cut out. Now I gotta figure out how wide this thing's gonna be. I'm
gonna use a couple of pieces of plywood as well that I've already got on hand to rip down and then we'll start assembling things. So I wanna make sure that my legs have a good straight edge on both sides and that they're all exactly the same width this way. So what I'm gonna do is take it to the table
saw and do my jointing with a table saw trick I'm gonna join one side, all four boards, then I'm gonna flip it over, whoobam, and cut the other side against the fence and just rip that edge off and then I'm gonna do all of them exactly the same so that they are all four the exact same width.
(upbeat music) So I've got that rascal cut, look at that, look how
square that sucker is (mumbles) so I've got both ends ripped down. This actually comes out to be three and a quarter inches wide, all four of them. So they're all the same width, which is what we want. Now I'm going to take these and set them on the… I gotta figure out how to mount the sink, cause I have no idea how to do that.
Let me do some research. I'm no plumber, putting in sinks and stuff like that It's not really my forte but from what I gathered from a 12 year old or 11 year old Lowe's video on YouTube, I think the edge board will go here and this sink actually just glues or corks onto this board. So if I flush everything up, get everything nice and flush, you just flush up everything on this side, it's got a flat place all the way around it for the corking, and so that's what I'm gonna do. I'm just gonna build it to be flush. But I do wonder if it would be better to have a lip around it.
So this one has a little bit of a lip all the way around it and that's probably what I'm gonna do is just leave an eighth inch. Let's do that, about an eighth
inch all the way around. So we know our legs are gonna
be turned facing each other. So what I like to do is just the legs that I'm gonna use like right here, I'll hold them in place and I'll get a measurement. Cut the top board or the face board. It's gonna be a two-by-six because that's what's on the picture. The face board in the front and then in the back, we'll use something smaller so we don't interfere with those.
Probably a one bar or a piece of plywood. (cheerful music) So this is what I've done,
I've cut this front piece. The sink itself is 25 inches by 19 inches. I know that I want an eighth inch from the inside here and an eighth inch from the front. What I've done is I've cut this 21 and three quarters of an inch. I've cut a piece of plywood, 31 and three quarters of an inch for the back, cause I don't wanna interfere with the plumbing going up through there where your faucet is.
And then I've cut these two pieces, the side pieces, at 12 and a quarter of an inch. The idea is I wanna take some pocket, drill pocket hole screws, two here, two on the inside of this piece, we'll set them in there like that. These two pieces will come together like so. These two pieces will be flush and there'll be flushed up to the front pocket hole screws, hold it all together. Same thing on the back side, we'll have a leg on the backside. And on the back, I've went all the way flush to the back because this is gonna go against the wall.
I don't want this piece to be a gap between the wall and this leg, so I will flush it up with the back so the customer can push this all the way against the wall. Pocket hole time. (upbeat music) Because I'm using three quarter inch material,
I had to adjust this down to three quarters. This is three quarters of an inch thick. I wanna make sure that and then this bit set for three quarters of an inch.
(upbeat music) So I'm looking at this picture which is what I'm going off
on I need a board across here that looks like a two-by-two I'm gonna make make three, four, two-by-two. I'm
just gonna cut them out of that two-by-six that I've got and cut them the exact same length as the top piece. So 12 and a quarter, I'll cut two of them 12 and a quarter, two of them 21 and three quarters, and then we'll rip them down the exact same size and assemble.
Best way to make sure those bottom pieces are exactly the same as the top pieces is lay that top piece on there and line everything up and use the… Flush this side up and use this. Let that blade touch that edge and then you'll move that out the top piece out of the
way and make your cut. (cheerful music) So what I'm gonna do is assemble the sides first.
This is the top, so if we flipped it up, this would be the side. Let's figure out which side you want pointed out. It doesn't really matter much on this board, kinda looks the same. This one's gonna be the inside. It's gonna be like this, I need to flip it over. Whoobam, if you don't
have a kreg face clamp, buy one. So I'm gonna take some wood glue, I'm gonna take my one
of a kind glue spreader, spread that out. Main thing is you wanna make sure this top is flush. So you see there's some
blue and silver screws, the blue screws connect blue screws. These blue screws are made for outdoor, I was running out of silver so I'm just gonna use the blue, It doesn't really matter. They're just more corrosion resistant which is not a bad idea
for the bathroom anyway.
Make sure that top is perfectly flush and then I wanna drive this top screw in. (screwing into wood) I like to move this clamp down to this end, where that screw is going in and pull everything nice
and flush there as well. (screwing into wood) So that's the front
seat, the way that looks. (screwing into wood) That's the top of the side, that's what we got. So I'm gonna measure up seven inches from the bottom, and the reason I put… I've decided seven inches is to the bottom of this piece is because that's gonna
leave me 16 inch opening for the door on the front. kind of a makes it even. What I wanna do is take seven inches.
A combination square, y'all I'm going to set
this at seven inches and then I'm gonna hold it from the bottom and get this lined up and then screw it in. Same thing, I'm gonna turn
these holes to the inside. We'll go and put some glue on both sides and the reason I made those marks is just to get a guide of about where it needs to go.
Combination squares are really good for this use right here. (tools falling) It's not good if you drop it. So this is seven inches. (screwing into wood) We've got one side done we're gonna do the other
one the exact same way. It's really best If you have a good flat
surface to work off of, if you don't, it makes it harder to get everything nice and square. (cheerful music) So I've got some three quarter inch sanded birch plywood, pieces
that I've had left over from other projects. This is what I'm gonna make my door out of for the vanity as well as the inset panel on the side of these legs. So this is a side it's
gonna have an inset panel of that three quarter inch plywood and we're just gonna pocket
hole screw it in there.
So I'm gonna rip that down,
It's gonna be 16 and a quarter. I thought it was gonna be 16 inches. I wanna be a 16 and a quarter inches tall, 12 and a quarter inches wide,
so that's what I'm doing now is going to rip that plywood that size. I'm using my table saw but if you have a kreg rip cut, if you've watched any of my other videos dealing with plywood, you can go check out the
plywood dresser build, a couple of other things. I use that kreg rip cut a lot. If you don't have a table saw, you can get you a kreg rip cut, they're like $40.
I'll drop a link in the description below and you can use that to cut plywood to the size you need with a circular saw. (upbeat music) All right, you saw me
sneaking up on that cut there. I didn't wanna get it too loose, too fast, so, I always like to
cut just a little long (electric drill sound) and then ease up on that cut. Change this all back to three quarters of an inch material, remove the stop block. So it's not gonna take a lot, I'm probably gonna do two per side here.
(upbeat music) Two on each end and one in the middle, how's that? I'm going to install these panels and I'm gonna take two pieces of plywood, three quarter inch plywood,
and lay them in there. And that's going to
keep that three quarters of an inch away from the edge, but first I need to sand this because once it's inside it's gonna be harder to sand.
There's a little bit of a tear out right here on this edge, on the inside, it's not on the outside maybe a little at the top.
It's not gonna matter too much but I'm gonna sand this first with 120 grit sandpaper.
(upbeat music) Look at that. It ain't
perfect, but she looks good, good, good. I like that. I like how it's inset there. May take some cold molding in there, I have to wait and see what
it's going to look like when it's put together. So far, I like it. Only concern is when I stain all this a little bit later, we may have to double
coat that, we'll see. Put the panel in the other door and we'll be ready to rock on. All right. So I got the both the side panels done, now it's time to put the front together and I got mess, standby. (tools dragging on the table) What? Like you don't
ever get messes, come on. I'm really liking how
this is starting to look. I was kinda concerned
about it to begin with. So, now we've gotta get
these two sides joined up.
Remember, we got our two-by-six front. You're gonna probably need a clamp, If you don't have any, I've got these Irwin 36 inch clamp or you can get them at a
Harbor Freight, 36 inch clamps. Just a small clamp to help
everything hold together while you get the screws in there so nothing gets cheeky with you and starts moving. Remember the back piece is gonna be that piece of plywood, because we don't want it to
interfere with our plumbing. I'm just going to put that
in there as a spacer for now, I'm gonna glue and clamp
these two sides together and screw everything down. And then we'll take a
two-by-two, right there, put it on the bottom, same level as the bottom runners.
Down here, I'll use a two-by-two as well. You know what I'll do? What I'm gonna do, is
I'm gonna move this in quarter of an inch, and then I'm gonna put
a piece of quarter inch plywood on the back, It's gonna help everything stabilize and it'll give that back, it'll give it a back, it
gives it a back sort of. We will inset this quarter of an inch then we'll cut a piece of quarter inch Luan or plywood, quarter inch plywood put in the back.
(upbeat music) I'm gonna put a three quarter inch sheet of plywood in the bottom
for a bottom shelf. First thing I need to do… I'm gonna build a door that sits in here. So I wanna make sure that
the door's gonna close. It's gonna be a flush. Yeah, it's gonna flush up to
the outside edge of this. So I think I needed to do that first, means I think that shelf is gonna sit flush in here, door first. So I got the rails cut out for my door. I wanna leave about a 16th
inch gap all the way around, it's what my plan is anyway. So I'm gonna take these to put them there, cause it's gonna simulate, one on top one on bottom and
then measuring this will tell me how big my style needs to be or my vertical piece. So 13, they're the same, 13 and five sixteenths are
gonna be, would be tight.
So I'm gonna take off a
16th off the top and bottom. So we're gonna go to
13 and three sixteenths of an inch for two pieces. And I just ripped these out of that two-by-six just like I did these bottom rails, no difference, so they're are two-by-twos are one and a half by
one and a half square. Yeah, it's gonna be nice. Again, you're gonna need
a decently flat surface. I'm gonna drill some pocket holes.
I'm gonna sand these with 120 grit before I put everything together. (upbeat music) All right, so I've got
my door frame cut out, I've got the pocket holes
drilled in the vertical pieces, they'll be on the back,
you won't see those. So basically we're building it upside down or whatever. You need a face clamp, you don't need one but it makes it so much
easier if you have one. Your main thing here is
you're gonna make sure that this outside edge stays flush. It's gotta stay flush or
extremely close to flush. So if you clamp that down and you can feel a little bit of a lip there you can take your mallet, If you have one, (music) and just bump it, ever so slightly till it gets flush. (light piano music) Bloop, bloop , bloop, bloop. (electric drill noise) It's best to go in and
glue both ends of this, one of a kind glue spreader, You ought to have a one of
a kind glue spreader too, cause as Dr.
Zeus says, "No one is more you're than you." (electric drill noise) (mumbles) All right, so I got my door frame made and you remember how we did the panels on the insides? It's how we're gonna
do the same thing here. So I'll turn and flip it upside down. Two, three quarter inch strips, That's gonna keep it inset three quarters of an inch. I've got this roughly the size I want, I didn't want…oh man, hehehe I don't got (indistinct) look at that, I cut it too short.
Dang it (wood slamming on table) Whooo! Well I'm fixing to cut
another piece, standby. What had happened was my son called me right before I made that cut and I had already run the
board through this way and I was supposed to turn it before I adjusted my fence but I adjusted my fence with it this way. I just cut it too short. So this time we're gonna sneak up on that. So right now it doesn't
fit because it's too big. I cut it that way on purpose, and I'm gonna trim just
a little bit off the edge maybe a 16th off, (clears throat) maybe a little less
until I get it to fit in, and then once it snug, I will start trimming the edge off the other edge off so
that it fits this way. So I've got it where it's
gonna to fit this way and now I'm gonna try to
get it to fit this way. Cause I'm just gonna… you can see it's just
about a maybe a 16th inch. Then I need to trim and I'm gonna trim just
a tiny bit off each edge, or off of this edge and then bring it back
over and see if it fits.
I don't think this is gonna be enough and I'm gonna try it. Yap. I didn't even, I cut maybe a 64th off, so I still got about that much more to go. Let's try it now. Yeah. All right, so I got this where it'll fit, it's pretty snug, it's not super tight, I'm not gonna have to hammer
it in, slides in there. I'm gonna to cut or
drill some pocket holes, just like I did on those panels. So we're gonna put this X piece on there and it would be so much
easier if you do it now versus after you inset that panel. I'm gonna cut this X piece out. Let me show you how we're gonna do it. So what I'm gonna do is just
set the table saw to rip up a three quarter inch piece.
(table saw cutting through wood) So I've cut some strips so they are the same
thickness as this plywood and so that's gonna let me have everything flush up front. The best way, and you can see on the picture, the angles are to the bottom of the door and then to the top of the door. So that's what we're gonna do. This is an easy way to do it. So you're just going to
line it up with this corner, you align that with that corner, just reach under and make that mark. Same thing on this other side, just hold everything still, make sure that corner's lined up, you reach in, make the mark. We're just going to take the miter saw and cut that angle. I just, I brought it close and I'm gonna cut it a little long. (saw cutting wood) That angle looks pretty close I could probably plan to go over just a little, maybe about 54 degrees, come back to 52 degrees, (saw cutting through wood) About 52 degrees looks right, (wood clanking) flip it around. It may or may not be 52 degrees.
Cut it long, just in case. (saw cutting timber) That's about a 52 degree angle. Once I get it cut I bring it back over and I'm just gonna lay it in there. It's just a little long, so I'll go trim a little
off and there it is, she fits, how awesome is that? So now we gotta do the other side, right? We're gonna do it the same way. This time we have this piece to deal with as well. So we wanna make sure we hold everything nice and snug. You can actually clamp these with some click quick clamps, if need be, probably be the best idea huh? These little doodads are
awesome to have around. They're not for creating a lot of pressure, but they'll
hold stuff in place. Clamp that one. Now I just mark the angles, (upbeat music) Un-clamp. I have my angles marked, and I'll go cut all these off, I'll cut all of them a little long and then we'll trim to fit. (wood clanking) I'm just gonna glue this stuff in and it'll be ready to roll once that glue is dry.
I'm gonna put some glue on the backs of these, as well as up
there where they connect, and then once that panel goes on there it'll actually be glued to the panel and the panel will be screwed in, those will never go anywhere. No need to brad nail the front. (upbeat music) I didn't show it, but I
just cut a square piece of plywood for the bottom shelf. Got it in there and I'ma
pocket hole screw it to the frame and I'm just going to make
sure it's flush inside and then screw it all
around and it'll be there. So this is actually coming along a lot quicker
than I thought it would.
I've got the frame built. I've got that shelf in there. The backs on there,
I've got the door built. I gotta sand those, crap. I hate sanding. Do 120 grit sandpaper. Before I do that, I'm gonna take an eighth inch round over bit on my router, go around the bottom of these legs, that way there's no worries about them splitting and all that stuff. So I'll just round those over then I'll take my sander and sand them down smooth and then sand this whole mess. And knock these rough, these sharp edges off these
boards with the sander, and like I said, the 120 grit
just kind of hit the edges so that they're not sharp. Let's do it. (upbeat music) I like to listen to audio
books when I'm sanding, here lately on business,
trying to grow this business.
If you're interested, link in the description
below to audible.com. If you've never signed up, you
can get two free audio books if you sign up for a free trial. It also helps me out. "Start with Why" is a
good book by Simon Sinek. That's what I'm listening to now. (upbeat music) So add up, I'm gonna put the hinges on the left. I'm gonna put the door, pull on the right, and when it closes, I don't
want it to go in too far. And what I've done is I've just laid it down on the table and
that's got everything flat. I can reach under there and
make sure everything's flush with the outside. Door face is flushed with
the face of the cabinet.
I can just take a little wood glue. I just cut this strip of one bar about I don't know, half inch thick,
lay it in there like that. That will ensure that it
closes at the right spot. And by having it laying flat on the table I know that all of this
is flushed up front and I just reach under there and check it. (nail gun clicking) A little
bit of glue and brad nails, is all that's gonna to take
and it's gonna be there. Through that strip there, it's just gonna act like a doorstop once the hinges are on when this goes in, whoobam, can't go any further in because I got that door
stopper on there now. So I want to install this door hardware. I've got some flush mount hinges kind of antique looking hinge. I'll drop some links in the description
below to these hardware. Best way I found to do it,
seen some other makers do that. Get a deck of cards, this is common playing cards, that way, we're gonna use these as spacers, so we get this space
right around this door.
Throw about four cards on each side and then we'll go from there and see if we need more. Six cards, looks like six cards, is gonna be the right spacing. So basically you're using, well you are, not basically, you are using the cards as shims and they're very thin, you can stack them to make
them thicker obviously. Get that door in there
just like you want it. Then another trick is if you set'em down there
on the bottom and the top you know they're the same
thickness or the same width. So you can just use it
as a spacer off the top and bottom for where are
you gonna put your hinges. And I'm just gonna pre-drill those hinges. I'm not gonna install anything. I might put the screws in there just to watch, to see the door swing. I want to install these and then take them back
off before I stain. I think the battery died on us. I just pre-drilled these holes so that the wood doesn't split.
Go ahead and screw these screws in there. Don't overdrive these. (drilling) (cheerful music) It's time to stain this bad boy. We're gonna use, if you've not seen it, there's a video on this
pre-stain conditioner just before this build video. So if you go check that out,
show you how to use this stuff. Why it's important to use it, but I'm fixing to put this on, we'll let that dry 30 minutes and then we'll apply our stain.
The stain we're going to
use is Minwax True Black, that's what the customer wants, that's what the customer gets. (upbeat music) It's time to stain this thing. So I'm gonna use this true black like I talked about. I'm gonna stain the bottom
side first, flip it up and then we'll stain the rest of it. I always like to stain
the underneath side first get you some Q-tips that'll help you get inside those pocket holes.
Dip it in the stain, smear it in there, makes your life easier. Get you a pair of gloves and pretty much a couple
of old rags or something. Really all there is to
it, let's get to staining. Try not to make too big of a mess. (upbeat music) So I've got the stain on this beast. It's not really a beast, it's not really that big. I got the stain on it. I made a gash, darn mess, Look at that. It's everywhere, man. One thing to know about staining with these oil based stains, don't throw those rags in the garbage. Don't do it. If they get in certain environments they can actually combust. They'll catch on fire. Don't put them in the garbage. What I usually do is put them around on the outside of the
house, in the open air for a few days, let it
ventilate for a couple of days. Then I just throw them away. But into the outside, garbage can, never put them in the inside garbage cans, just don't make… just make sure you're
not putting those things in containers closed containers or into
the garbage stuff like that.
Very, very important. So I'm gonna let this stain dry. It is 12 o'clock noon, my time, not your time, or maybe 12 o'clock if you watched it. So I'm gonna let this
dry over night actually. I think the can actually says like four to six hours. I'm gonna let this dry overnight. I'm gonna put the polyurethane on tomorrow and so I'm just gonna wait, make sure it gets good and cured. (upbeat music) So I let that dry overnight, now I'm gonna put this
water based polyurethane on by Varathane. I really like this stuff, It goes on nice, easy to work with. I'm gonna be spraying
it with that HomeRight Finish Max sprayer. It makes it go a little faster, it uses a little more than you would if you brushed
it, but it goes a lot faster. So you'll see me using my bench cookies with those paint cones on top and then I'll set the
vanity on top of that, that'll keep it up off the work table.
Got some cardboard down, that way I don't mess up my work table. And the awesome thing about this water based polyurethane, is it dries pretty fast. So about every 30 minutes I'm gonna put a coat of polyurethane on. I'll make sure that it is dry. As long as it's dry to the
touch you'll be golden. I'm gonna put a light, very light coat on
because I'm spraying it. I don't want it to run. So I'm gonna do a really light coat probably do about five
coats every 30 minutes or so. If it needs sanding between the coats, so if you feel it and it feels rough or gritty, what you do is you take a really high grit sandpaper 1,000, 1,500 or 2,000 grit on a sanding block and
just rub it down lightly and then wipe that down with a lint free cloth, damp lint free cloth, and then you'll just put another coat on.
Typically with this water base, as long as you have a
dust free environment, a lot of times you're not gonna have
that rough bumpy feeling like you do with oil based. So I've got the Finish Max set up I've poured that poly in there. One thing to note is, while it's in the can you wanna stir that lightly with a stick, a clean stick. Don't shake it, because that'll only introduce bubbles into your finish and you don't want that. So lightly stir that until it's all mixed up good. Take 30, 45 seconds, stir slowly. We'll apply with this Finish Max sprayer. This Finish Max sprayer is not
something like a Fuji sprayer or one of the higher end
sprayers, but it is awesome for the type of projects. I'm making, especially less than a $100 for a sprayer. Save you that much in time, alone. (upbeat music) All right, that was about
six coats of polyurethane, pretty thin coats, each time, come out really nice.
I'm not having to sand
between any of the coats, it's really smooth that
sprayer did a really good job. Now it's time to install the door or re-install. I've already got my holes where I'd started last time. (upbeat music) Ooh, look at this! So all woodworkers make mistakes, I don't care what they tell you. It happens, whether it be an accident or just a goof where you brain just didn't work right. This build was no different. I broke the customer's sink top. I broke the customer's sink top. You'll see in this video, caught on my security camera. I was moving the tripod to get
a different angle on things and I bumped my dust collection hose for my sander, sander fell off the table, it hit the sink top just
right and broke the corner.
So that cost me $100. That was a $100 mistake because now I've had to
order a replacement sink top so that the customer don't
have a broken sink top. Lesson learnt is, if they give you something,
move it out of the way. Hey, if you enjoyed this build why don't you go ahead and
click that box right there, take you to the next set of videos. I would highly appreciate that and if you click that box, I'll give you that virtual fist bump. Also, don't forget to
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