Hi, my name is Ryan and I really appreciate you stopping by. What we're going to do in this video is walk through my process on how to make double-ended grain cutting boards, both are rather large, both about 16" x 20", and made out of oak and walnut. The oak was actually reused oak and it came from my storage of old barrels/old barrel parts back there.
The nut came from a nut store and I have a lot to show you that we're going to go right in. Now, this isn't the first time I've worked with a cask and it certainly won't be the last. Every time I decide to build something with a bunch of sticks, I think to myself I should really consider building some sort of steambox for straightening oak. But then I say to myself "It's just a handful this time, so I'll grind and figure it out next round." Well here we are at the next round and I still haven't figured it out. One quick note before we dive fully in here, you might see some things over the next few while while sounding a little funky.
Well, I will go on and say that this video is for entertainment purposes only. Well the first thing to do is get the curve out of each sinew and I do that by laying it flat on the miter saw, aligning the blade with where the wood starts to curve, cutting it there and then turning it around and doing the same. I ended up cutting about 4 inches off the middle part of each one and sailed through doing this with all the sticks. In case you were curious, all of the barrels and parts of the barrels in my possession came to me from the local distillery. Once Shelter Point has decommissioned their barrels and they are no longer of use, they make their way to my shop where I have the best intentions of dismantling them one day and repurposing the oak into some really cool projects. The next step is to flatten one side of each plank. I do this by running each piece through the bond and can usually get a flat enough surface in 3-4 passes.
Doing so gives me a face I can ride along the planer bed in the next step. When I do repetitive work like this it's more fun for me if I know when it's going to end so I guess if I have 130 boards and each one takes 20 seconds to process so 2600 seconds divide that by 60 seconds a minute I know it's going to take About 43 minutes to perform 520 knife passes. Not that I count every swipe and don't have a clock hanging in the store that I can watch, but associating numbers with things just helps me feel more in control.
This is me always trying to think a step ahead. Like a carpenter making stairs. The last few times I've worked with a wooden barrel I only put a flat face on one side of each board and then proceeded to feed the other face through the planer and since this face was anything but flat it always took a few awkward passes to shave off the corners before the rollers really start grabbing the material. What I did this time before heading to the planer was joint the other side of each board in the hopes that this would make life easier. The idea is for everything to be milled to the same thickness but as you can see I have a variety of thicknesses going on here so what I did was separate things into 2 piles. One mound is formed slightly thicker than the others and the other is slightly thinner than the others. "it does not make sense." The thick pile was the first to go through the planer and I sent it as many times as needed to reduce it to the same thickness as the thin pile.
The first half of the process takes some patience and generally feels a bit overwhelming. I started with what looked like a thick stick and fed the whole thing through the planer at that height then dropped the planer and fed everything back in. Sometimes the rollers will catch on the sticks and sometimes some sticks are still very thin and just need to be pushed all the way through without actually removing any material . You just kind of work through the process until everything comes to the same thickness and the material is feeding consistently. Next thing I do is trim both edges on the table saw. First, I run one side of each panel across the blade. I set the fence for each board to take off as little as possible while also creating a square edge.
I could have gone back to the joint to do this but doing it here is faster and gives me a cleaner finish than the joint. Some of these sticks are wide enough that I can get two usable sticks out of each one, and as I've noticed by now, I just feed in and pick everything out once at the end rather than duplicating it. I turn off the saw, and I walk around and pile things up as I go. Once I cut one edge on each board, I set the fence just once and ran everything over again. Each board ends up being 2" which means the full width bricks in the pattern will be 2" and the brick halves that create the zigzag look will be 1". I aim to make boards 24" wide so I did a rough count of how many boards I had, how many boards are 2" inch that I could create it to, then I cut that amount plus a few extra at 1" wide. Technically these boards are glue ready and I could jump right into making walnut mortar strips but I decided to take things back to the miter saw and trim the tails off each one.
The reason for doing this is to eliminate any room for error during the first paste. I really wouldn't put it in the past until I somehow end up with a board flipped in a board where it shouldn't be. Honestly, it seems like a really silly mistake that no one could make but trust me, more silly things have happened in this shop. With the tails trimmed, I can flip the boards over for the end without any fallout, and for the few minutes it takes, it's totally worth it to me. To the nuts! I've been moving all this time. I need two sets of mortar strips. One set will be the thin grain slits that go in between the boards you just finished milling, and the other will be the long grain strips that run a little later during the final glue. The thickness of the edge grain slits shall be the same as the thickness of the end grain slits.
I find the best way to make sure the thickness of everything is consistent is to make both sets of strips at the same time vs. cutting the first set now and then trying to recreate the same dimensions with the end grain later. I'm actually going to make the end grain slats first which is what these 4 longer boards use. The cuts from each one will be used to make the edge grain strips. Once everything is cut at the saw, I swing by the jointer to tackle one edge on each board. I'm not shooting for a perfect 90 degree edge here, I'm simply looking to create a flat edge that will help me do what I want to do on my table saw.
Which we'll get to in just a minute. Next, I swing by the planer to get each piece even. I scribble some pencil lines on the boards and then run them through the machine until they disappear telling me when the surface has been planed enough. By the way, you'll notice that this planer looks a little different than the one I had before. This is because the one I was using before actually broke during another project involving some pallet wood I was working on at the same time as this one. If you'd like to learn more about my plot episode and watch me edit the episode, check out this video. On the table saw, I ran each plank twice. The first edge I put on the fence is the one I just passed through the link. I adjusted the fence accordingly to take off as little as possible in order to correct the opposite edge and did this on all 4 boards and then put them all back together, except this time with the edge that I just cut while riding on the fence.
This ensured that I had a nice glue line edge on each side of the boards. Technically you should be able to do this with a connector but I can't be trusted to get the job done as I need to do it. You will notice that I am not gluing the middle seam here and this is because I am creating two halves that will fit with a planer before joining them into one large panel with only one seam that I will need to sand belt. All other boards and clamps need to pinch everything as flat as possible while the glue is doing its thing. And since I failed to photograph the part where I rotated the two halves down and glued them back together, we'll jump straight to this part. I wish I could run a belt sander back and forth over that seam until it was gone but if I did I would have a low spot all the way down the board and as soon as I went to cut this thing into end grain slats each one would have a little bit of a slit on its side which It may cause some serious gaps in the end panels.
What I need to do is run the sander over the entire surface. Basically I need to do the job a wide edge drum or sander can do but with a 4" belt sander. I use 60 grit and it's very important to go back and forth like this. Going side by side can lead to some serious deep scratches. Once this is done I need to clear the end of this board before I can cut it into all end grain strips. I don't have a track saw and have never built a cross sled for my table saw . So what I do is square up the edge and hammer it through the bandsaw following the pencil line. It's not a perfect cut but I don't need it. I will only have one strip with some bandsaw marks in it which will be cleaned up later while flattening. I've never used a sliding table saw, but I imagine it would really hit the spot now.
I am cutting these strips at 2 3/16". I want the end boards to be exactly 2" thick and the extra 3/16" thick is what the router will take off when we go flatten the end boards. This was made easier as the board got shorter and once it was all cut I pinched it together and set aside 4 slats as they would be used to create the borders on one of the boards. Now for the part of the project that was honestly giving me a little anxiety. Simply because I didn't have a perfect way to do it. I needed to cut each of these pieces into 3 slices. In the past I've cut these on the table, but my table had never seen what it used to be, so I decided to give it a try with a bandsaw.
My biggest concern was how I was going to clean up the blade marks afterwards but that was an issue for me in the future so I set the fence to 3/16" and just started to slide the pieces through and watch this from the angle I'm at now it should I have my other blade board on the backend of the saw to have more control over how the strips come out of the blade.You can really see the tension in the wood release and some of the pieces with voids simply come apart.I kind of expected there to be a few casualties, So I cut some more to start with and when they broke I used some CA glue with activator to attach them back together.Once everything was cut I quickly screwed them together while I figured out how I was going to go about the saw marks and cut the other set of strips.Which was very easy.
Because I didn't adjust the width on the bandsaw, I thought I 'd run the rest of the nut right in to create the strips I needed for my first glue. Here's where I try something stupid. It's stupid because it can be dangerous and it's really stupid of me because I really know better. But for some reason I decided To oppose my thousand judgment stray The first thought I had to remove the blade marks was to run the whole thing through a planer which is totally bad because the strips are so thin and prone to breaking as you run them through the planer against the grain.
Surprisingly, this actually worked well for the first few years, but then I was reminded why this is never a good idea. Well, I went to Plan B which includes Rotex. I used 100 grit paper in the random orbital mode at about 60% speed and this worked really well. The only downside is that it was boring. But just like attaching sticks, if I knew how long this would take, having that end in sight would make it a lot easier, so I timed how long it would take to sand one piece, and I did the math and I calculated that this was going to take about two hours, So I settled down with a good podcast and just went into auto demo mode. Once the last of them had been sunk, I put the end grains back into the clamps and took the ones I needed out to the counter to rip them down to the same thickness as the acorns.
And we get to the first 3 total gluings of these panels. You'll notice I do this thing again where I leave one line free of glue so I can send two halves of each board through the planer before joining them into one and only have one line to hit with the belt sander. As you know, a 24-inch is on my wish list next to the sliding table saw.
This part of the process is pretty straight forward: Lay out all the pieces, apply glue, flip it over, apply more glue, screw everything together, go down to the floor, and repeat until you're done or until you're out of the clamps, whichever comes first. Luckily I had enough bar clamps to get around this, but I had to steal a few smaller ones from the first one to use in the last one. After letting these sit overnight, I take everything off the next day. To keep track of which boards go together, I label the end bead so that after it runs through the planer, I can still tell which boards go with which. Because you better believe that no matter how hard I try not to, I will end up mixing things up. Whenever possible I strip the clamps after an hour or two of glue to remove the excess glue that has dried but since I glued them at the end of the day I couldn't do that and after 12 hours they were completely dried not much pay off but I give them a look at any case. Back to the planer, I take very light passes.
I need all of these boards to have the exact same thickness and I want to remove as little material as possible. Since it's already 9/16 of an inch thick, I really don't want to go any thicker than I absolutely have to. I've fed them several times, lowering the cutlery just enough to take off almost a microscopic amount each time. I wish you didn't take off more than 1/8 inch total on each one but by the time I had everything the same size these boards were a very paltry 3/8 inch thick. Go back to the top corner to glue to attach both halves into the finished panels and the process is pretty much identical to the previous one, put the trim on the tube, apply the glue, put the clamps, change the angle of the cam, move it to the floor, apply the glue, put it on the floor, Then put the clamps, then put the glue, on the floor, put a cut on the pipe, put the clamps, put the glue, on the floor, drop it on the floor, put this glue on the floor, one more time and one last time.
Well, it's not the right order, but I thought I'd mix things up in there just for the fun of it. are you having fun I enjoy. Speaking of fun, here's a fun fact: I'm coming up on the one year anniversary of the release of my first YouTube video. Honestly, I feel like I'm just getting started. The groundwork is complete, the foundation is poured , and it's time to build some walls. Every time you watch one of these videos it helps me buy a few more pieces of wood and I can only assume that if you're still here you're enjoying the show and I assure you, I have many more episodes to come. If you've already subscribed I appreciate you, and if you haven't signed up yet I still appreciate you, but if you could go ahead and sign up…"that would be great." Simply hover over their little icon in the bottom right corner and click Subscribe. You can even do this without missing a single second of the incredibly exciting glue-scraping scene. Well, we're starting to get to the really fun stuff.
It won't be long now before we'll be cutting these boards into strips and assembling the brick patterns. First things first, though, a little more belt sanding is in order. Same method I used on the walnut , going across the entire surface with a belt sander ensures a consistent sand and less chance of nasty gaps showing up later. Again I use 60 grit to do this and this makes things work really fast. It's like a very aggressive borderline, but I find the 80 grit takes a little longer than I'd like, so I live on the edge with the 60. The last step before running the whole thing through the table saw is to clear the end of each board to ride against the fence and I'll go ahead and do this And, you guessed it, on a band saw. Same idea as before, as long as I stay on my pencil line I'll end up with a straight enough edge to ride against the table saw fence and the bandsaw marks left on the first strip of each board will be dealt with while flattening.
I should mention and you may notice I get some chips from these cuts that can get in the way when it's time to glue up. I usually run some sandpaper along the side of the cut edge to get rid of any chip, but I didn't sand that part because the sanding is dull. We are now getting somewhere. With the fence set at 2 3/16", I start cutting the strips. This time I'm a little more careful. I don't push them all in and let them fall off the end of the table. They will likely break and I like to keep the strips from each board together. A good idea and one you don't see me doing here is to use a clearance free throat plate on your table saw to make cuts like this. It eliminates gaps on either side of the blade and the chance of chipping on your material, which generally makes for some much nicer cuts and glue lines.
I already had one but left it on because I'm having issues with this saw. Specifically some blade wobble. I think I have some tree problems. When I have the zero clearance plate inside, the blade doesn't spin as freely as it should and I end up forcing the material through which isn't really a safe thing to do, and it usually leaves some nasty burn marks. Honestly, I've ridden this saw pretty hard for the past 5 years and I'm amazed it's not in worse shape. Working with reclaimed wood has its challenges. I was worried I had a few slats where the holes you see in the wood here would end up in the tops of the boards. Fortunately , I avoided this problem by 99.9%. Most of them will end up filled with glue and sealed forever to never be seen again. I had a few strips that I had to pull out of the playing field because of what you see here and added them to my collection of leftovers and chops that I actually combined into one giant funky chopping block. Be sure to check out this short short video if you want to see how it all came together.
Are you still with me? Great, I'll manage something else by you. YouTube has a new feature called Super Thanks which is really straightforward. What Super Thanks is, is a way for you to support what I'm doing here with your wallet. Let me give you an example. Let's say you're watching me build this table and I say like "You know, this guy looks fine, he's got a decent work ethic, I thought I'd like to flip him a few bucks and help him out." To do this, quickly exit the video, click here and choose the amount you would like to contribute. Now for me, I know this guy personally and he has a 9-month-old at home who walks around in diapers, so I'm really going to go ahead and send him the $5. You put in your payment info and once you submit it you get a fun animation and you also get a colorful commentary on that video. Now everyone else watching this video can see your support and in this particular case, everyone can see that I sent myself my money and thanked myself for doing so, so that's fun.
Before heading to the glue corner I turn every other strip over to create the brick pattern, grab the 4 pieces of walnut I set aside earlier and slide over the finished glue. By the way, that's what I did a few days ago at the clamps for all those grain slices. I've been asked more than a few times now if I have plans available for my sticky dance and the short answer is that I don't. I put this jig together when I first came into this shop from an old kitchen table, a bunch of 2×4's, a couple 2×6's and some PVC pipe I had been kicking around.
It looks so utterly primitive and gaudy that I'm almost embarrassed to be allowed to see it. But it serves the purpose really well and I'm so flattered every time someone wants to copy and build one for themselves, maybe one day I'll design and build a more professional version that I'll have plans available for. When it comes to gluing 1 or both sides, I'm definitely in the gluing my joint face camp .
I've been told more than a few times that I use too much glue, and while I certainly have some excess pressure, I have my reasons. The first is that I think the glue joint is stronger when the glue is applied on both sides. The glue seeps into the wood fibers evenly on both sides of the joint and forms the strongest bond across the joint. The other reason I'm liberal with glue is because my grind isn't always perfect and especially here where I'm working with repurposed oak. I'd rather squeeze out the extra glue and find its way into any small gaps than apply only minimal and come back the next day to see small voids in my work.
Speaking of gaps, here's a good lesson on what not to do during the glue-up process . Notice how I'm staring at something here. If we zoom in you'll notice there's a little gap going on and just like that time I put those thin strips of walnut in the planer I go ahead and do something I know I shouldn't do I move the clamp off the board currently applying even pressure across the glue up and put the clamp on the strips itself. Once you do this, you are applying localized pressure to that area and causing the strips to bend and you can do some aesthetic damage to the board.
Pay close attention later, and your eyes will notice the slight bend this causes to the overall pattern. Between doing this and my bad habit of over-tightening the clamps, I definitely have room for improvement when it comes to producing perfectly straight looking mortar lines. After sitting in the clamps for a few hours, I shake off the usual excess and it never ceases to amaze me how cool some people find this.
I have put a number of glue scraping clips on my Instagram and the combined views of all of them are in the millions. I guess I'm not the only one who finds this fun and satisfying. Once they're clean, they go back to the clamps until the next day, at which point I take them out and let them sit for a few days before flattening. This allows any remaining moisture from the glue to escape and any movement of the wood that will occur with that .
Basically, I just kind of let them breathe and relax. Just like my sticky table, my flat jig is another work of art, a true masterpiece. But it gets the job done. It's another one of those things I keep telling myself I really need to do a better version of, but until you stop getting the job done, it probably won't move to the top of my priority list. I use a dab of hot glue on each corner to secure the board to the seat. Sometimes I put shims under the corners when needed but in this case the board is already so close to flat that it isn't necessary. The technical name for the bit I'm using here is a double flute straight bit and I set its depth to the lowest of the four corners and start by taking slow, steady passes. Orienting the end grain takes some patience.
You go too fast and you get some bad rips, you go too slow and you get some burn marks. I only remove material in the front pass as the bit is going down the grain. I am not removing material because I am pulling the guide back. I tried that once and it made the router jump on me and ruin the board I was working on and to be honest the [ __ ] scared me. I aim to take off no more than 1/8" material at once. If I have to go over the board a few times to drop it onto a flat surface, that's just the way it is. I'm not worried about ripping at the edges as that will be taken care of in just a minute. Another thing I do After completing the initial leveling is to drop the router bit down about 1/32" and go over the entire surface again. I find this cleans things up a bit and reduces the amount of sanding required. Speaking of which, this is exactly what I do after flattening. Using the 60 grit again on the belt sander, I go over every surface of each board until I don't see any scars left over from the router bit.
I find 60 grit is the magic number for this. I've tried going down to 50 and even 40, but I found that it left behind some significant scratches that took a long time to smooth out from orbit. I also went the other way to 80 grit and again, it just wasn't fast enough for me. Before I square the short edges into the table saw, I'm going to run the long edges through the binding. As I again insert the wood into the knives against the grain, I take very, very light passes, just enough to flatten the edge. The reason I do this instead of running the board through a table saw to correct the edge is because I find the boards are rarely dead to a perfect square. If I ran this through the saw to create a true 90 degree angle it would probably leave me with a long tapered cut that would be sharper than an eighth or even a quarter of an inch out of square board. You'll have to forgive me for apparently having set up my phone the wrong way to capture this moment.
Once I had the long edges I was able to use the INCRA metric to square the short edges. And no, your eyes are not deceiving you, I am already standing behind the saw and dragging the board to the blade. Having this miter gauge at the back end of the saw gives it more support and allows for wider material to be fed through the blade before the gauge leaves the miter track and begins to essentially flop in the wind. I was hesitant to try this method at first, but I found that it works really well. We're on our way home now. Before I carved the juicy grooves and bore the fingers, I hit the tops of the boards with 60 grit Rotex in full blast monster mode and then switched to random orbital mode to do all the edging.
This stage of sanding takes care of any marks left by any of the machines and ensures that the rails for the juice groove jig will sit as tightly to the board as possible. So far I have probably done over 100 juice holes but I still get a little anxious when it comes time to do them. I've had a couple walk sideways in the past and it feels absolutely horrible when that happens. But this stuff went really well and I usually make grooves in 4 passes. The first is a very light pass, the second and third are deeper and remove the bulk of the material and the fourth is a fast cleaning pass. The key to avoiding burn marks is something sharp, don't start in a corner, keep your router moving and move around those corners as smoothly and quickly as possible.
The last thing to do before we get to all the sanding is to dig into the finger grips which I do with this very simple jig I made out of a piece of plywood. Like grooves, I make a few passes to do this. I'm technically moving the router in the wrong direction to make this happen. According to the rotation of the bit I have to go from left to right but to avoid going out I move it from right to left.
It feels awkward and you really need to hold on to the machine but it eliminates the chances of snagging and leaves a really nice feature. So I'm sorry I lied to you, that wasn't the last thing we had to do. One more thing we need to do is take care of any voids with some CA glue. I love this stuff and use it all the time. It's such a problem solver. Although you do want to be careful when using it on the end grain because it can suck up the fibers around the void and leave you with some fun little marks that are hard to get rid of.
I regret not making the knobs a little wider on this board so I don't have that little flaw here. The glue ensures that structurally it won't be a problem at all, it's just a feature of the board now. To sand the end grain, my process goes like this: I buff the grain with water. Not much, just enough to wet the surface. This makes the wood fibers stand up. Once dry, I scribble a pencil line and then proceed to sand. Once the entire pencil line is gone, I know it's time to move on to the next nib. I do this between each grit and order 80, 100, 120, 150, 180, 220, 320 and finally 400. I go rotex mode up to 180. At 180 I pause and do all my sanding. I put the grooves and finger knots through the exact same grain progression. I get asked all the time if I have any end grain sanding tips and what I feel like being asked is "how can I make it go faster?" Because honestly, end-grain sanding is a brute thing.
Especially hardwoods like maple or this oak. If you're looking to speed things up a rotex sander combined with some ceramic abrasive sandpaper this speeds things up exponentially. I recently got this sandpaper and was absolutely blown away by how fast I could sand. There is a link in the description below if you would like to try the same sample pack that changed my life. For the last 3 grits, I switch the sander to orbital mode and polish the boards to 400. As great as the Festool dusting kit is, there's still some sawdust left and before I drop oil on the boards, I use compressed air to remove it. After a quick photo shoot of the finished plates before oiling them out for Instagram purposes, it was time. For the oil, I've been working through the leftovers from this 5-gallon jug. I used to have a large plastic bag filled with oil in which I dipped all the boards in, but I've gone back to this method since then. I use a lint free rag to spread it around and typically let it soak in for around 20 minutes.
The walnut has a nice mixture of heartwood and sapwood and after seeing it come to life, I can tell it's going to blend and age really well with the oak. Speaking of which, another question/comment I get a lot is "I thought oak isn't good for cutting boards because bacteria can grow in it's pores?" and I'll be straight up with you, I think that theory is totally bunk. The idea seems logical at first, that bacteria can make a home in the larger pores of oak and multiply but from the research I've done, wood itself is an antimicrobial material with oak and pine having some of the highest antimicrobial properties. These are also end grain boards and the vertical orientation of the wood fibers naturally repel and push out anything that tries to make it's way down. This is also white oak which is a closed core wood. Red oak is the one with large open pores and that would likely be the species to avoid. But even then, not because of bacteria, but simply because the pores are like little miniature straws. You can literally run water through the board so it just might not be the most practical for food prep.
I've also read something like 90% of bacteria don't survive after 10 minutes of being on the surface of wood and the rest is easily taken care of with proper cleaning. I suppose if you were to horribly neglect a board that would give germs a better chance of growing but just don't do that. Lastly, on this point, you may remember the large block I built out of 2 barrels nearly 6 months ago. It's made entirely out of oak and has been getting used a couple times a day in my kitchen ever since and there's zero signs of funky stuff growing on it so I'm of the opinion that white oak is an excellent wood to use for an end grain cutting board and I certainly plan to keep on using it.
I give the boards a solid 24 hours to air out before sealing them up with a coat of beeswax. This particular wax is made on a small island that's close to the island that I live on and I really like it. I do the bottom of the boards first and I'm actually using a piece of an old bed sheet to massage it on. That's honestly what this company recommends most to use. Like the oil, I give it about 20 minutes before wiping off the excess and before I flip the boards over to do the tops, I install rubber feet on each corner and I use this little jig I made to ensure they're consistently set in from each of the 4 corners.
I screw them in by hand, I figure the screws are small enough that I really don't think any pre-drilling is necessary. The very last thing I do is flip them over and wax the top. No board I've ever built has been perfect and I imagine any board I build after these will also fall short of being perfect. It's what makes each one truly unique. It's the beauty/curse of working with wood. It's an infinite process of continuous improvement of skills and through getting better at working and creating things with your hands, I believe you become a little bit better at being a human being. Lessons learned in the shop can be applied generally across life. With every project, I gain a little more humility, build a little more confidence, develop a little more patience and invoke a bit more appreciation for the materials given to us by nature or in my case, my local distillery. More and more I find myself working with reclaimed wood and there's an added joy in being able to take some wood that started it's life as a tree, was then made into an object that served a purpose for many years and once that purpose has been exhausted to be made into something else that will serve another purpose for a very long time to come.
With the proper care and attention, these boards will last for many years and even have the potential to become heirlooms that are passed down to the next generation. Alright my friend, that is it for this build. Thanks again for your time and for following along all the way to the end. I've got some fun things in the works. Just as I was putting this video together, I came into possession of a two hundred square feet of white oak hardwood flooring that I am definitely going to repurpose into a variety of boards similar to these ones. And in case you're curious about what that pallet board project was all about, here's a glimpse of what that turned into.
I'm currently working on that video so stay tuned for that. For now, I wish you peace and happiness, and until next time, take care of yourself and the ones around you. Bye for now..