Making a toilet paper stand that solves the 2 biggest issues.

Welcome to Make Something. Today,
we are making a toilet paper holder. Today's video is brought
to us by Scott 1000. So we have all four pieces cut
for this toilet paper stand. The next thing I need to do
is cut a little dado along
the top and the bottom of these pieces. That's going
to hold a piece of plywood. Now I have my blade set to
half the height of the board. This is just the same blade that I
used to rip and crosscut everything. So I went ahead and drilled
holes on the two side pieces.

These holes will hold the dowel, which
will then hold the roll of toilet paper. So the next thing I need to do is put a
miter on all four pieces and glue this up. But before I do that, I would like
to tell you about today's sponsor. And that is Scott 1000. Scott, 1000 toilet paper has 1000 septic safe
and clog for your sheets per toll that has been getting the job done since 1913. 1000 sheets means less rule changing, and this stand is going
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sponsor in today's video.

Now let's get back to
this toilet paper stand. So now I need to add a miter on the
inside of all four boards and that's how they're gonna get joined together. I have always done this at the table
saw by tilting my blade to 45 degrees. But today I thought I would try something
a little bit different and I have a 45 degree chamfer bit in my
router either way should work, wanted to try something different.

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So now on the bottom of all four boards, I want to draw a little
arc there and cut that out. This is a decorative element, and
then I'll on the two side pieces. I wanna do the same thing.
And to draw that arc, I am going to draw a 20 inch diameter
circle on a piece of paper and use that template to transfer that line
to the wood. Now, two things, one, I don't have paper big enough for
a 20 inch circle, not a big deal. I only need part of that circle. And two, I don't have a compass big enough
to draw a 20 inch diameter circle. So I just have a board here
with a pencil clamped on one end and a screw clamped on the
other end, 10 inches apart.

And I'm just going to draw this
on some construction paper. Now I'm wondering if I could had to
clamp my x-acto knife in there instead of the pencil. So on the bottom of all
four boards, I'm coming in a half inch from the edge. Then I'm gonna take my arc and meet those two lines. There we go. So now on the
two side pieces, again, we're gonna come in a half inch
and then we're gonna use our short front as a template. We're gonna
push that all the way to the bottom and then mark that right there. And then we're gonna use that same paper
template and then connect those two marks. And you do wanna make sure that you're
doing it on what's going to be the front of the side pieces.

Now we can
cut all of those out on the… So now I'm drawing the
opening on the front here. I'm gonna cut this part
out on the band saw, but I need to round these over
here. The bottom of a paint can, should we work here as well. Went ahead and cut a one eight
inch plywood top and bottom. You wanna make sure that plywood bottom
fits into the groove and is not too big.

Otherwise our glue up is
going to be a little rough. This top one is going to
have this decorative element. So we're going to draw another arc
on there and I need to know where to start. And I'm gonna mark where that piece fits there.
Same with the other side. And this is that same
template from before. And I wanted to meet there and meet there. So now it is time to glue everything up. I've got that groove for the plywood
bottom facing down on my bench, and I'm just going to position these
together and we use the straight edge to make sure our bottom is flat.

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And I'm just gonna put some
masking tape along the edge there. Naturally. This is going to be a very strong joint
because it's all long grain to long grain. So I'm not going
to use much glue at all. Cause I don't want a lot of squeeze out. Typically I Don don't put any
glue in that groove at all, but this top piece only is going
to be connected by three pieces.

Since that front sticks out a little bit. So I'm gonna put in
that piece right there. I'm gonna put in this piece back here. Those two seems look really
good. Let's check the back here. Not good at all. All right.
We got some work to do. No squeeze out on the inside.
It's exactly what I wanted. I got this little gap there. So
I'm just gonna use a piece of tape. No clamps today. No clamps today. Couple of these pieces of tape I pulled
off and I'm reworking so I can get a nice tight joint. Imagine if somebody made masking
tape that stretched and could work as a clamp. I mean, there is a
little bit of elasticity to it, but not much, make sure I have
no gaps in my corner there. Cause that will be visible.

That was a
little stressful sweating a little bit, but that is going to
work. That is our glue up. Now when I'm mitered these edges, I didn't go all the way to the
very edge I left a little bit. That is because I know that I'm going to
sand that over kind of round that over a little bit. So it might
look like there's a gap there, but that's all gonna be taken care of. So now we can let that
dry for an hour or two. We can work on the dowel that's gonna
go right there in the phone holder. I ended up turning the holder on the
lathe and it made these little nubs on there. So it falls into place.
And then doesn't come out. Now, if you don't have a lathe, I did do a test that is a one
inch hole and this is a seven, eight inch do that I got from home
Depot. And when I slide that in there, it does not fall outta place.
So no lathe, no problem.

And if you wanted to be certain
that this didn't come out, you could cut little disc and
glue 'em on the end there. That is just smaller than
the size of that hole. So I'm gonna put mine back in there. The one that I made and the reason I
made it outta maple is because I had the, the maple plywood up top there. So I wanted those two colors to just
kind of go together. Then up top, we got the phone holder. The phone can go that way
or this way I also made it. So it sits above the ridges and you
can put a tablet in there as well. So with the mitered corners, if
you do end up with a little gap, a great trick is to fill it with some
glue and then take a screwdriver and burnish those edges over and it closes
up and you'll never know that there was a gap there. And then if you still
have, have tiny little gaps, you can always mix some saw dust and some
wood glue and fill that up and sand it away.

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All the breaking and rounding over of the
edges was just done with sandpaper and a little bit of hand
sanding, no router bits. And then up top here where
this lip meets this curve. I did have to chisel away and kind of
sand that profile down a little bit, just a couple minutes of work. And it
turned out really, really good, very, very happy with this. I used a
spray lacker for the outside. It is my finish of choice
lately, cuz it dries so fast. And especially when you use an HVLP gun, it atomizes it so small that
it dries within minutes.

Like I'm like two, three minutes. I
can go and move on to the next coat. One very, very light standing
before the final coat. And I get an almost perfect finish when
I get the hang of the HVLP gun a little bit more and I gather up
a little bit of knowledge. I'll probably do a video on that,
but right now it's still new to me, but it is pretty amazing. The finishes that I can get
out of it and I can do three, four coats in like a half hour,
which is absolutely amazing. And it came out flawless. I will have plans available for this on
my website. I appreciate you watching. Please subscribe and like,
and do all that fun stuff.

Let me know what you
think of this down below. Thank you to Scott 1000 for
sponsoring today's video. That's is going to wrap it up. We'll see you next week with a brand new
woodworking project. As always be safe, have fun, stay passionate
and make something. Oh, oh, oh you gotta go over the
top. You gotta go over the top. There is no other way than over the top. Let me know down in the comments.

If you are over the top or
if you do it the wrong way..

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