I've got my two registration faces so what I'm going to do is find the center of this here, now I've got seven inches so this is going to be a larger mallet like this one, it's going to give me an extra quarter of an inch, this wood is lighter than this one so I am going to go for a larger mallet but you may want to go for six inches so I'll find the center here and I find the center here so I'm basically this is about as close as you get to seven inches and six inches here then I join those two lines together why did I do that instead of squaring it, can you see there is a slight discrepancy in there because I'm still roughing this, this angle may be slightly different than this one I don't know so I'm going to go to the center of these two, like that transfer them onto the end I want a balanced mallet if there was slightly more, so I'm trying to work to any eventualities suppose it's what I'm saying, there's my centerline, centerline there, CL and CL there, so those are my dead centerlines so what I do now I have the center line on this one remember CL so now I lay this on top of here and allow a protrusion, I'm going to allow there to be 25 mill, two and a half centimeters and that is one inch then I align this on this side I'll spin this around in a second so there I am dead centered on this so you can see the significance here I turned it round and I'm centered on this here ok so I'm going to make a mark here just in case there's some slippage and a mark here so that I can keep that position I won't have to mark again and then what I'm going to do to get the exact position on the mallet head I go with my knife here right into this corner here I make a knife nick right on the corner and I do the same on this one here right in the corner to make sure I'm dead on and then I go to this side here then I can line that right on my center line the one this line here and I go right into this corner here in this corner here any small slippage probably will not affect what we're doing but there is my knife nick, oops did I get the right one, I'm going to check this just to make sure, nope didn't get either of those fact see what happens when you get past 60, okay try again see these have got to be dead on so I'm just going to press a little bit harder for there is my knife there is my knife now on this face on the inside here I'm going to come with a very light pass just somewhere in the middle here I don't mind seeing the knife lines on this it's a mallet not a piece of furniture so just there and then I've got my lines here so I get registered against a square face so I go into my knife nick there, slide up small mark, this is going to be completely planed out so you don't have to be too fussed to hear about not showing knife walls I probably would just leave them in on a mallet so there can you see, now I'm going to set a mortise gauge and if you don't have a mortise gauge you can just use a marking gauge but register from the same face find the center, move three eighths of an inch over to one side and make your wall, I'm going to go probably with the chisel that I'm going to chop the mortise with but now you notice that I left this one is still seven eighths of an inch I'm going to leave that fat in case my what my mortise holes need to be pared down slightly for some reason which can happen so set this into the center of your head material this is a little tight obviously this face isn't cleaned up but I can still get centered on to it make a small mark turn it around just to get you centered cinch it up tight then run your gaze lines between those two knife walls there like that okay same on to this other face here on the inside face and these gauge lines are going to be cut lines after we'll be paring down these gauge lines in actuality so there's one, two now I don't know if you want to do this you could do this you could take this now with a single pin now that we've finished with the double pins and if you only have a marking gauge that's fine too but you could go right in between these two lines here slap bang in the middle, must be humid because my gauges kind of see its depth a little bit here and here and you can run a gauge line right in between these two like this and this because we're going to bore this is the only time you'll probably ever see me bore out the hole with a brace and bit so that's what we'll do now so we're finished with this for a minute but when you see this next stage of what we call a boring stage, I'm ready, I'm ready to bore these holes out what I'm going to do is I'm going to take a 7/16 orga in a brace and bit you probably would I don't know if you would you might use a drill driver screw gun electric drill with the pedal bit in it or an auger bit they work just fine but this is surprisingly effective and surprisingly efficient usually what I'm going to do just to show you what I'm aiming for I have to follow this angle I can't just go square so I'm going to square these angle lines just to guide me really so here and here here here just to just to guide me along the rake with the bit there that's great surprising this is only 1/8 less than this side so it's making it look almost square now I don't know whether I would suggest this let me just show you this is purely visual now but I'm going to start my bit away from the knife wall that I created by about one sixteenth which is about two millimeters two and a half mill so I'm starting here and I want to show you as best I can that right in here I'm two millimeters from this knife wall here or the gauge line two millimeters from this side and about two millimeters from here can you see that ok so now then I could hold it this way I find it a little difficult because I have to rely on the snail to pull me into the wood so we'll do this one but I have to now follow the rake of this here and then I have to make sure that I'm perpendicular from this face and I want to go about halfway through so now I've lost the snail the snail's not pulling because I'm not adding my upper body weight and shoulder weight to the work so this is why I was saying it's very hard to cut into here and have that working effectively so what we do is we put it this way like this and we employ the most valuable asset I have is this, this is called relaxed muscle and I can just lean into this here see that how it cushions everything it's perfect so you can see now I've got this body weight I only want to go through about half way so to make sure I do it's a good idea to put some mark on here that gives me some indication of where I'm going to so that I don't go too far let's say I was going through and I was going at an angle this way I can come from the other side and may be correct it, I have no idea when I'm inside that hole where I'm going at this point so here is what I'm doing I'm going to go halfway through like this, this is cutting just fine now every so often I'll feel the snail which is the very point which looks a bit like a snail I suppose pull out the waste with the bit and there's one hole so let me see if I can show you a bit more to camera in here just below the line and this is going to be in the way, you see if that can go a little higher and a little higher this way which will work I think yeah a little bit closer I'm right on that edge line I think it'll work fine but so I got upper chest this time so I'm leaning my whole massive muscle from my upper body my which is a heavy heavy aspect of my body into this brace I'm not going to bother with the middle section because that will just chisel out in a heartbeat I think this is stopped pulling so check the snail can you see in there even just a little bit there this starts to clog inside the snail so just flick that out and it'll add a little, this side is more evident here see it here so you can just flick that out, like that, gets compressed inside the hole and it doesn't have anywhere to go sometimes losing it that grip extra grip now we got it you can see why this exercise is really good it really gets your heart pumping and that's why people don't like hand tool, woodworking, it takes effort but it's really good exercise very good exercise for you, one more from this side and these don't have to line up inside it's great if they do sometimes you'll find somehow you managed to go from both sides the meeting back out, let's see, yes it's good, don't know how good but it's now we are way through that's pretty accurate really and one more ah, I'm a little off-center there on the side of the hole pop it with the heel of my hand, that'll push the fibers over angle this over and then square it up and I'm wrong line again well close to so I'm still following the rake of that angled mortise hole but it wouldn't really matter you can still chisel the angle exactly sometimes think I should be on the other side of the camera and have some younger blood in here, I'm through there we go so you can see through, it is not very pretty but we are through so we're going to chop now what we do is go in here tighten the vise fairly large chisel center cut and then either side we can keep going down just to clean out that midsection as best you can really stay away from your gauge lines for a little bit longer there we go on close to the other side that looks like a pair of binoculars now and on this side here center again, that was closer to this side than I am, okay that's it, that's me through so what do I do now I'm going to stay exactly where I am and I'm going to start with my the three-quarter inch chisel just away from my knife wall like this and then I'm going to go near to the knife wall but not into it yet like this now I'm going directly into that knife wall there lever away from the shoulder line not into it and closer to it so this is the narrow end, see that when I went "che che dip" it's not going anywhere so I have to clear somewhere for that waste wood to go, I'm going to go on here now I'm going to go directly into the gauge line like this and this across the whole width that's giving me an exact cut line there and the same on this side I'm going to start away from a line here so I can just read the grain the grain is doing fine so here and then here just on the surface fibers because I want a very crisp clean line like this here, this is got a little tiny gap but that's fine this is perfectly acceptable for a mallet so that gets me close in and then so I chop down this face here so it's separating the fibers and that will make the end grain cuts here a little easier I think, so I'm going to angle over here now, watch this, see I'm angled way over even though I should be angled the other way just to clean out some of that waste why wouldn't I use a mortise chisel, it's too big too heavy I find it quite ineffective compared to a regular chisel and as long as I don't over lever on this put too much pressure on it'll work just fine which is what it's doing now so take out the perimeter of the hole gradually, now I want to follow the rake as much as I can, you can imagine how large mortise chisel would bind itself in the mortise wall, I think these tool salesmen dislike me sometimes because of what I say because they're selling tools and equipment but not many craftsmen that I ever you have worked with used a mortise chisel except when they were doing massive mortises deep mortises on doors this would be probably close to that can you see what I'm getting here now I'm about a third of the way through and I'm a little bored with this side so I'm going to go through the other side just to make sure that I'm aligning gradually with where I want to be, so you chop again on this outside perimeter start away from the cut line, lever and then move into this gradually and now I'm right in that knife wall there that's got me a perfect line same on this one here start away from the cut line lever as best as you can, there wasn't much space to go with that closer to your knife wall and then little up stand there right into that edge there, lever think I'm confident that this grain, see it split in exactly where I wanted to, so I can go right into my gauge line then keep working down that side here I'm going to take a little bit off their first because I'm reading the grain confident cuts getting closer we're not near meeting yet so here I'm going to go away from my knife wall down at the bottom and chisel out some of the waste we're close, love it, love it, love it love it, if you don't have a long chisel those silly butt chisels don't work for us really kind of came in at one time in this stayed with us I'm afraid okay down in there well this is aligning almost already sometimes I'm surprised this time I am because this isn't always going to align so I want to forewarn you that it may not do exactly what you want it to do can you see right in there so we're almost aligned so what I do here this little rubber thing in there works perfectly give it a good firm grip double-handed just pare down this face to about halfway flip around I can feel it I'm relying on my feelings a little bit here and eyeballing, yeah we rely on those intuitive aspects now you're developing this intuitive aspect of working especially if you work through woodworking master classes that really has been a wonderful change in direction for me to try and help you through our Woodworking Masterclasses YouTube has been wonderful for that too I feel quite happy that at this stage maybe I can do a little bit more on the hole this way maybe I can just clean this up a little bit and I feel quite happy that that is near perfect can you see there's no, I press down, there is no gap on that bottom edge probably a longer straight edge would help more so I go on here there's no gap on that bottom edge and there's no gap on that side which means it must be straight or even hollow I try not to get it hollow, my eyes tell me it's perfectly straight let me see if it shows a better example of not being straight inside this one, see how it's rocking that means I have a high spot in the middle would I go with the three-quarter inch chisel probably not I'd probably go with a half inch just to get the high spot first, boy this is a lot of power going here I'm going halfway why do I go halfway because I hit a dead spot spot where I couldn't go past coming from this side, this side it went through so I'm careful not to go all the way through to that edge there because I might break off a chunk let's see what we've got here now perfect can you see in there, how that aligns with that front edge no rounded areas so there is my mortise hole crisp clean beautiful does this fit?no, this won't fit yet because it's not to the proper width so I've got a plane this, this is kind of hard when you got the taper in there so you could use the, no you can't use, yes you can use the piece you cut off did I throw it away there it is so you could use this to counter that what we'll do is we'll plane just a leading edge on both ends first, I think especially this end here, I love these planes, bit more, there, let's see if that fits in the start of the hole and it does pretty close nice tight so I've gone down to there so I can make a mark and I don't need to probably don't need to plane anymore off this section see what we got here we still thick so this was the end I was planing so I'm going to try planing more the other end, keep these chisels away from your hands and knives, you don't want to be planing here this knife would puncture in here, personal safety your responsibility not mine but I do care about you so I want to tell you all the things that have damaged my hands so that you can learn from my big mistakes so nice and tight so I'm easing from that line towards the other end now I might take this, put a bit of a lead in there and try this in here, not quite there no but this one I think is pretty close to my finish so I'm going to take a little bit more off here fit this so now I can just take the middle bit confidently from this zero mark here all the way through to this zero mark here like this I take an even passage with my plane from both sides of the wood because my plane isn't quite wide enough like this now I'm going all the way through here drop this in here, what's happening it's going to there, still a little bit of gap there so check inside shock it on, pretty close I have a slight gap here and I've got a gap here I got actually two gaps here and I but I still have another inch to go so am I too wide this way? I am I can see, yeah there's a very slight gap there and there's no gap on this side which is really what I wanted so it could be that I'm a little too fat somewhere around this spot that should really be quite loose and it's quite tight so I'm going to take this out and take a shaving nearer to this end here that will get me pretty close it I still have to plane this surface because this was the machined surface so I might do some on this side this time just a little bit okay so here yeah yeah those machines okay see how close we are this time something inside there just, aha, another thing I need to tell you too before we get any further into this and it's too late I'm going in here just to take a little step off this side here oh I get it that's it just a little snug holding me off well I've got you here look at this right on this rim here if I drive my shaft into here, this outside edge can break so I'm going to go right on here now that I've got it close to fitting and I take that corner off now it does show it will show as a slight more like a gap but if I don't do that this inevitably breaks and often you look inside mallets here and you'll see this corner is broken out not good so taking it off there and I also take it off on this outside edge here especially here because when it drives in tight the natural flinging of the mallet is what keeps this tight I probably didn't explain that this mallet had never ever comes loose none of my mallet heads ever come loose from the shaft because you're always flinging it and the shock of the wood and everything hitting the wood it draws it onto itself so here I take this off about three mil from that corner at 45 like that just like that and the same on this one three mil no more than an eighth really probably a little less now let's see if this still trips on the inside, it does which means it's the wall because I did have a couple of little trips there but this one is I can see it inside it's just the wall, just a little bit, that's probably what was tripping it up when it went into, let's try again, ah, that's where I was going oh this is great so hopefully this will stop three quarters, is tight already so I'm very happy that I haven't taken too much off the shaft, this is really compressing these fibers here we can see how much of an overhang I've got I may even leave that if I took one shaving off here it'll probably move it in another quarter of an inch so maybe we should do that I'm tight inside here don't know if you can see inside these corners but I'm dead tight inside on either side here you just have to take my word for it and the same on here right inside here so I got the exact angle there so they're commensurate with one another so do I take the extra shaving or not, oh, that's a big question I'm going to take it take a chance, so here three that's why I'm going to settle on three see if we're close no it is still a good distance away now I'm very tight at this end so and here I can see a hairline it's probably hard on your ears, so a little bit more off from here down towards the end of the shaft I think, there, there and there I want this to be an exact correspondence between the two that's about as solid as it gets that should I do that way, so hard still I can see a little bit inside the shaft there, it might need a little bit off, take this here, couple more you don't want to go too far better to leave it now and let it to acclimate to your shop that should be one inch dead on alright so now we need to shake the head and shake the shaft and I'll show you how to do that you
