How To Make A Floor Easel // DIY Art Easel // Easy Woodworking Project

Hey everybody it's Taylor with Boydston Grove 
and today we're going to show you how to make   a full-size floor easel! Let's get into it! For my floor easel, I'm going to be using four 
one by twos that i picked up at the local hardware   store. They come pre-sanded and pre-cut to six 
foot long and that's the size that I want for my   easel anyway, so there's no cutting to be done for 
these pieces. For the rest of the pieces of the   easel I'm going to be using these 1 by 3 cut-offs 
that I have left over from another project.   They're already all cut to around two feet so 
that's perfect for what I need them for and i'm   going to need a total of around nine. That means 
if you're going to do this project, you're going   to want to buy three of the six foot lengths of 
these one by threes from the local hardware store.   For the center rail of my easel, I'm just going 
to be using one of the one by twos and splitting   it in half.

I'm going to leave a little gap in 
between them for the rails to be able to slide   up and down. Now, there's three different ways you 
can do this; you can split the piece of wood as I   did, or you can use your router and just cut out 
a groove down the center, or if you don't have any   tools to do any of this, you can just buy an extra 
one by two. I started by assembling the main frame   of this easel which is pretty easy since all the 
pieces are already cut to the length that I want.   I screwed four of the 1x3s together 
in an L formation to make two   rails that will hold the canvases to the easel. I used the miter saw just to 
clean up the ends of the rails.   I cut four pieces of the 1x3s to fit 
between the long rails of the easel. I attached them to the back of the canvas rails. 
These will keep the canvas rails in place, on the   easel, and help them to slide up and down more 
smoothly.

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When attaching the rails to the frame,   I'm making sure to put the short side of the 
L against the frame itself. That way the long   side of the L is what the canvases will sit 
on. That will give me a little extra room.   I decided to use threaded inserts and star-headed 
bolts for all the moving parts of the easel.   That way everything can easily 
be adjusted or removed if needed.   I purchased the inserts and bolts as a kit 
from Amazon. It comes with a wide variety   of sizes of both. I'll make sure to leave a 
link for the kit in the description below. I'm using three of the 1x3s to make 
a base for the easel. To start,   I added a threaded insert to each side of the 
bottom of the easel frame to attach the base to.

I cut my last 1 by 2 in half to use as 
adjustable legs for the back of the easel.   While the frame was standing up, I used one 
of the one by twos to mark the base pieces   where I wanted the legs to sit. I made a total of 
five cut outs on the two side pieces of the base   for five different positions on the easel. 
I spaced them one and a half inches apart   and cut them out using a three quarter 
inch forstner bit and a jigsaw.   The positions are really a personal preference, as 
to how you like your easel to sit while painting,   so make sure that when you're 
marking your base pieces,   that you're keeping the easel at the position 
that is most comfortable for you to paint at.

Once the positions were cut, I added the third 
one by three and attach the base to the frame. In order for the back legs to fold up 
flat up against the frame when not in use,   I needed to add a few small blocks of wood 
to the frame for the back legs to attach   to. I was all out of the 1x2s, so I cut a 
few pieces of a 1 by 3 and cut them to the   same width of the 1 by 2s. Once attached to the 
frame, I added a threaded insert on each one.   Then I attached a 1 by 3 to the two 
legs to keep them properly spaced.

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Now, here's where I had to fix my 
mistake. I grabbed the wrong size   bit when I was drilling the holes for the dowel,   so the dowel was really loose. That's okay, 
I'm just going to put a couple screws in there   to hold the dowel in place and I can always 
take them out and replace the dowel later. Lastly, I added some really small casters; 
two with locks to the bottom of the frame   and the other two to the back 
of the base. Despite their size,   they're rated for 25 pounds each and 
so that should be plenty strong enough.   I found these on Amazon. I'll leave a 
link for them in the description below. All right, our floor easel is finished and I'm 
really happy with the way that it came out,   especially the casters. I'm really surprised 
because they're so incredibly small, but they   actually roll really smoothly, they don't get 
caught up, and it doesn't feel like there's any   weight on them, and they're so low pro.

It's just 
a really nice touch, makes it easy to work with.   One of my favorite features about this 
design is that I used the star bolts for   all the adjustable features so 
that with just a quick turn… you can adjust it to however 
you want, along with the legs   and everything. Another thing that I like about 
this is that; when you're finished using it… it folds up completely flat and will fit behind a 
door or under a bed for easy storage. One of the   adjustments I did have to make is; I had to cut a 
little bit extra off of each of these backboards   on the back of this bottom rail so that it would 
slide past the legs right here. I didn't bother   putting any finish on this because after all, it 
is for painting so it will get covered with paint   and other things, so not really worried about 
it.

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If you enjoyed this video, make sure to   like it. We have a full video showing you how to 
make these art canvases, along with a full video   showing you how to make a tabletop easel, so make 
sure to head over to our channel, check those out,   subscribe, and hit the notification bell. And 
we would love to hear what you thought of this   project in the comments below. Thank you very 
much for watching! Be safe and have a great day!.

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