This is part 2 of our TV lift cabinet
build sponsored by tvliftcabinet.com the top needs five one by sixes and
we'll glue them up into two different sections the first one gets three one by sixes
and the other one gets two we're gluing these edge to edge and we want to avoid gaps as
much as possible so when you're picking out boards take your time go through the whole pile
and try to find the boards with the straightest edges possible i bought six foot red oak boards
but you could buy pine even the select pine is about half the price of this red oak i like
that the oak is a denser wood and it'll stand up better to dents and scrapes i also like the
way that it stains with a dark walnut stain i've got both sections of the table top here
and they're all dried and sanded and what i need to do now is cut them down to their final length
which is 55 inches anytime i do a glue up i always leave myself some extra room because it's really
difficult to get these flush on each end so now i can bring the circular saw on the track over here
and get a really nice clean square edge on each end after that it'll be time to cut out the lid
on this bigger section so what i'll do is measure four and a half inches from each end and then cut
those off with the circular saw now the width of the circular saw blade which is also called
the kerf will be the spacing between the lid and the side pieces and that will allow us to
open and close the lid after these two ends are cut off we will glue them to the smaller piece
now the lid also needs some clearance between itself and this other piece so
we're gonna have to take about a sixteenth of an inch off of
just the lid in the front i'm dry fitting this lid just to make sure that
functionally everything is going to work right so when the tv lift extends all the way up we
need this lid to stay at less than 90 degrees so that once the tv lift goes back down the lid will
close with it when i put the lift in here and held up the lid and tried to eyeball what the angle
was going to look like i realized it was going to be really close so i went ahead and just made
this easy plywood mount and it brings the lift two inches further in and allows the lid to lay a
little bit flatter the top is going to be attached with these figure eight fasteners that swivel back
and forth and that allows the top to expand and contract with the seasons these fasteners
are installed just below the surface here so i'm going to take a three-quarter inch forstner
bit and drill a really shallow half hole so we'll put the point of the forstner bit about an eighth
of an inch from the edge and drill a shallow hole that looks good so now we can attach it with
the provided screws and i think these are just number six screws and they're probably about
5 8 of an inch long you want this tight enough so that it's not rattling around but you
want it to be able to swivel back and forth notice that i'm angling this so that it goes
back this way and that's so that i don't break through the plywood here as i mentioned
before the top is going to expand and contract this way across its grain so we need to
put figure eight fasteners on this end and on the other end but i also want to be able
to hold it down in the middle and that wood came from the hardware store and it's actually
fairly cupped after i started cutting it and i don't want it to look humped once the table
top's installed so if i would have planned this ahead of time and known that i was going to do
this piece i could have installed it flush and then we could put figure eight fasteners on
it two on each side luckily i did not glue this so i'm just going to remove it raise it
up here and i'll fix the plan to reflect that now that the front part of the top is fastened
down i can fit this trim and i'll push that right up against the top to make sure it covers any
gaps and it's going to be fit with miter joints i can also now install the lid with this piano
hinge and what i'll do is put this in the middle this is a 30 inch hinge so i'll have 8
inches on each side and i want it flush with the top here the important part of this
is that the hinge cannot be below the surface or when you open the lid it's going to scrape so
i'm going to get it as flush as i can and if i make a mistake i want that mistake to be just
a little bit too high as opposed to being too low so i'll attach this with two or three screws
just to test it and then we'll put the lid into place get it positioned with the gaps even all
the way around and then we'll attach it to the lid i'm done building the cabinet in the top so
now all i need to do is put the finish on i'm gonna paint the cabinet with an acrylic paint
that dries to a really hard finish and then the top gets a dark walnut stain with polyurethane
clear coat on top of that before i paint i want to give everything one last light sanding i've
got some wood filler in different places that needs to be sanded down and then i want to remove
any greasy fingerprints or anything like that do completely do foreign i want to thank tv lift cabinet for sponsoring
this video go check them out at tvliftcabinet.com they've got great quality lifts and they also
sell cabinets if you're not into building your own but if you do want to build one of these on
your own there'll be a link below to the free plan go and get that and then head over to one
of these videos and we'll see you over there
