End Grain Cutting Board || Woodworking

i've been collecting a lot of scrap walnut 
from some of my past projects and i haven't   really known what to do with it until right 
now i'm going to make myself an end grain   cutting board out of scrap walnut and an extra 
piece of hard maple that i had laying around so   without further ado don't forget to subscribe 
like and comment and let's get to it the first thing i'm gonna do is take my dewalt   planer here and take everything down 
to three quarters of an inch thick now i've got everything all planed down to 
three quarters of an inch thick i'm going   to go ahead and run everything through the 
table saw and rip it down to one and five   eighths inch thick then i'm going to 
glue everything up and run it through   the planer again to take it down to the final 
thickness of one and a half inches thick that   means each of my sections of my board are 
going to be one and a half inches thick okay we've got all of those strips cut up and 
if we were doing an edge grain cutting board   we'd basically be done we just have to glue this 
thing up run it through the planer and make it   square but we're not we're doing an end grain 
cutting board which means i have to glue this   all up and then cut it into pieces and then stand 
it up on its end and then reassemble it again   so the next step for us is going to be 
to glue all this up and then let it dry   before i get started with this glue up i just want 
to point out that i'm using tight bond 3 which   is non-toxic and fda approved for indirect food 
contact i'll put a link to this in my description this glue is also waterproof when 
dry and has a longer working time be sure to use plenty of clamps 
for good even clamping pressure all right this thing's pretty 
much ready to go we're gonna   let this thing sit overnight and 
see how it looks in the morning today is a new day and the reason i know that is 
because i'm wearing a different colored t-shirt   so i went ahead and removed our cutting board from 
the clamps and the glue up turned out really well   but now i need to go ahead and 
flatten it the planer before i   cut it into strips to expose the end grain all right now that we're done playing this 
board the next step for me is to rip this into   1-5 8 slices and that will expose the end 
grain so we kind of see what we're working with   in addition it's going to be sort of setting the 
thickness of the board my plan is still playing   off about an eighth of an inch so i'm leaving 
an extra eighth inch so i can get that one and   a half inch of thickness so let's take it over 
to the table saw now and rip this into pieces well that turned out a lot better than 
i thought it would so that's a win   um so we got one more glue up now uh to glue 
all these pieces together but before i do that   i'm gonna try and randomize these a little 
bit they're pretty similar no matter which   way you go but i still think that i add a 
little bit more texture and randomness if i   flip-flop them so i'm gonna flip-flop a few of 
these boards and then i'm gonna throw it back   up into the clamps and glue it up and then we wait 
another day and then i'll see you guys tomorrow i like to remove any excess dry glue to keep the   board as flat as possible as 
it slides through the planer with an end grain board remove a very small 
amount of wood with each pass in the planer   the orientation of the grain makes the 
board susceptible to tear out or separation so the board is flat but as you can see there 
is a lot of damage on the backside and this   is kind of exactly what i was afraid of go 
ahead and drop me a comment and tell me how   you guys prevent this from happening on an end 
grain cutting board using standard blades this   isn't really that big of a deal though what 
i'm going to do is take the table saw and   just clean up that damaged edge which is why i 
kept passing it through in the same direction   i just want all the damage to happen on 
one side once i saw it starting to happen   so let's take over the table saw now and clean 
up this edge and then square the board up   if i were to do this again i would have squared up 
the long edge with the ca glue trick in the next   step and then cleaned off the short ends of my 
crosscut sled this would have ensured the corners   were perfect right angles i ended up getting 
lucky and they were still pretty much spot on be sure to line up the straight edge 
guide with the pattern on your board when sanding work your way through the grits up 
to 120 then stop wet the board and let it dry   then finish with 120 and then 240.

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Wetting the 
board will cause the grain to pop allowing you   to sand it smooth this will keep the board smooth 
longer i'm going to be adding rubber stoppers to   this so it should be sitting a little ways off the 
table so it should be pretty easy to pick up and i   like the clean look of no handles so the next 
thing i'm going to do is add a chamfer around   the edge just to break this edge and make a little 
softer and add a little bit of a cosmetic feature the board looks beautiful and a lot of people 
will stop right there and there's nothing wrong   with that but i want to add a juice groove to 
this board so i need to make a juice groove   jig so i'm actually going to put a link to 
the video i use to make this juice group jig   and i'm not taking any credit for it this person 
and maybe other people have made the exact same   jig can take all the credit for it that's fine 
so let's build that jig i determined where i   wanted the juice groove and then measured from 
the edge of the board to the edge of the router   plate to determine the width of the spacer 
next i measured the rough size of the board using three quarter inch plywood i cut the base 
of the jig a few inches bigger than the board   on all sides to be able to accommodate 
larger boards i might make in the future   then i ripped some two and 
a half inch router guides   and some one inch spacers using the 
measurements from the previous step i glued the guides and 
spacers together with ca glue i placed the guides on the base 
to determine the final length then i cut them to length on the table saw a 
miter saw would have been a better choice for this   once i was happy with them i added brad nails the guides get screwed to the base 
to hold the board firmly in position   now we have a jig and we 
are ready to cut the groove when cutting your groove move in a direction that   pushes the router toward the 
guide and takes small passes well i screw up my juice group just a 
little bit right about here but what i   think i'm going to do is just try 
and make the juice group slightly   larger to try and clean that 
up so let's see if that works the groove cleaned up pretty well and to 
be honest i like the width of it better   everything works out in the end i sanded the board one final 
time with 240 grit sandpaper then i pre-drilled some holes 
and screwed on the rubber feet i added a link to this food grade mineral oil 
in the video description i'm wiping it on in   this video but i would recommend soaking 
the board in oil for the best protection thank you for watching this entire video guys   i really appreciate it i could 
not do this without your support   please subscribe like and comment as well as 
check out one of these other great videos see ya i have no idea what i'm doing

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