– How you doin'? I'm Matt. In this video we're gonna be making this DIY outdoor sectional
with common lumber that you can buy at your local home store. (tools whizzing) We're gonna to be using
basic tools to build it with. We'll show you how to weather seal it so that it lasts longer in the weather. (air whoosh) In the description
below, you'll find links to the build plans, as well as the tools and supplies I
used to make this project. (air whoosh) So the first thing I gotta
do is cut out the frame for both the long side and the short side of this DIY sectional. (saw whizzing) And so I'm a be using
common two-by six pine here and I'm a cut two pieces
at 77 inches long, eight pieces, 21 and three quarter. And then, also, two pieces at 39 inches. And that will make up both frames. (air whoosh) So I'm using the Massca
products, M2 Pocket Hole Jig. It's easily adjustable.
So we're gonna do inch and a half stalk because that's what a
common two-by-six is. You just set inch and a half there. (air whoosh) We'll set our depth of our bit. We won't drill with this guide. So a lot of times, if
you're drillin' pocket holes you'll notice that sometimes
they'll bust through (air whoosh) if you've drilled too much into your hole. So what I like to do is
I'll actually back this off, maybe an eighth inch. That helps out, a lot. (air whoosh) (upbeat music) (drill whizzing) (air whoosh) Now it's time to assemble both frames. I'm usin' Titebond II wood glue. Make sure you spread ample amounts here and then also two pocket
hole screws on each side.
I put each end on first. Then I equally space the center supports. This is gonna keep
everything nice and stable as well as square. (mouse click) (mouse clicking) Once the long frame's done do the short frame the exact same way. And using clamps here
will help keep everything from movin' on you. So we got both frames built. Now we're gonna put some decking on there. I'm just gonna use one by sixes (air whoosh) because they're lighter weight and they're a little less expensive than a two by six right now. Trying to keep this (wood slide sound) as low cost as possible.
So I'm just gonna cut four one-by-sixes, the length of this frame
here, to the exact length, which is 77 inches, I believe. (tape measure sliding) Cut four of those and we'll
put a gap in between each one, just space 'em equally so
that water can drain out and it's not holding water. (air whoosh) (upbeat music) (saw whizzing) (drill whizzing) (drill whizzing) (air whoosh) So we got our basic frame built.
Now we're gonna build the legs. And I'm gonna cut four
26-and-a-half-inch pieces for the uprights. And there'll be a piece on top. It'll make a total of 28 inches tall. Let's build some legs. (upbeat music) (saw whizzing) (air whoosh) So now I'm just assembling the legs. And this is the upright of the leg. And this'll be the second upright of the leg on the other side. (wood clunks) Course, the top here is your armrest. (air whoosh) I like to assemble everything upside down. I got it clamped in place, I got it glued. And then we'll just put some make sure you're usin'
outdoor screws here. (drill whizzing) Main thing here is you wanna make sure the front face is flush. And one good tip is to go
ahead and start both screws and that'll kinda hold
everything in place.
Even though you do have it clamped, sometimes that pocket hole
tends to throw everything off if you don't have both
of them already started. (upbeat music) (drill whizzing) (drill whizzing) This is the leg assembly. The section will actually
attach to this side (tapping wood) 'cause this is actually the leg assembly will sit like this. Your frame assembly (wood clunks) is heavy. Your frame assembly will
actually come in here like this and those pocket holes will be covered. And that's why you turn 'em that way.
We'll actually mount the top of the frame be at 17 inches here. (tape measure snaps) And, full disclosure, you
won't have to worry about this because I've already corrected this in the plans that I'm making. This is the back board. I'm gonna take it off
and make a longer board because (wood sliding) (wood clunks) that's actually gonna
come together like that. And then I'm gonna take this board off. Actually, what had
happened was I'd forgotten that there needed to be legs back here (laughs) on this back side.
So just I made a mistake, so But it wasn't too late to fix
it, so that's a great thing. We're gonna put the legs on right here. It's gonna be similar
to the other style leg, except for it's gonna come to here. And then we'll take this board (wood knocking) and extend it all the way
across for the back to lay on. You'll see what I mean
when we get to the back. (air whoosh) So this is the short side (clears throat) of the sectional. I've got it standin' up here
so I could get my measurement. (tape measure slides) So I'm buildin' the
short leg for the back.
And I know that I'm gonna need it to come to the same as this is. So it's 16 and a quarter
from the bottom of the leg, up to the top of this two-by-six frame. (tape measure snaps) And I'm gonna build this the
same to go on that back corner because there will be a one-by
on top to make it 17 total which is what this will be when we have our one-by on top like that. So the one-by'll actually
go all the way by this and onto the top of this. (upbeat music) (air whoosh) (clamp crunching) (drill whizzing) (wood clunking) (clamp crunching) (drill whizzing) And for this short leg
you're just gonna make sure to put the support in there up next to the top of the support so that you'll have something
to attach the frame to. So we're gonna start
assembling the sectional now. And so this is gonna be the well, it's gonna be your armrest up top. (tapping wood) (tape measure slides) We want our seat height here at 17 inches because our cushions are
gonna go on there like that.
They're about four inches thick. But when you sit on 'em (tape measure slides) they squish pretty good
down to about an inch. (wood slides) That'll give us about
an 18-inch seat height, give or take. I'm gonna glue this on and screw it because it's gonna be outside. (wood clunking) And it'll take care If you glue your joints together it'll take care of any squeakin'
and all that good stuff.
(upbeat music) Wet glue! Wet glue! I can drop this. Oof! Struggle is real! The struggle is real! (wood clunks) (mallet tapping) (clamp crunching) Again, these are exterior screws. Make sure you're using exterior screws or they'll rust and cause problems later. (drill whizzing) Probably better pre-drill that. Last thing I wanna happen
here is to go ahead and have a board split (upbeat music) because we didn't pre-drill our holes. (drill whizzing) (air whoosh) Before I get too much further along I'm gonna take my router. I've got a Whiteside chamfer bit. It's a 45-degree chamfer bit. (wood clunks) I'm gonna chamfer the
bottom of these legs. And then also the top of these armrests so that it doesn't hurt your arm. And on the bottom of the legs, just so that they don't split and bust. If you just leave 'em square then they have a tendency
to chip off and stuff. If you don't have a router,
just take your sander and sand that over until you
get kind of a rounded edge.
(upbeat music) That's what I'm doin' now. (sander whizzing) (sander whizzing) (air whoosh) All right, all right, all right. So this is the short side. I'm puttin' glue here where this short leg is gonna be attached. Again, this If you just want to screw
it together, you can. But it's gonna keep it from
squeakin' and stuff later as the wood expands and
contracts in this weather. Even if you've got it
stained, like we're going to, you wanna it's a great idea to go ahead
and put glue on this thing. So I went ahead and
rounded over those bottoms of this leg too.
(tool clunks) We're just gonna set this in there. (clamp crunching) The main thing you're lookin' for here is you wanna make sure
this top side is flush and this back side is flush. We'll just screw that in. (upbeat music) (mallet tapping) (drill whizzing) (air whoosh) Is this right? (crows cawing) (inhales) Yeah. So now you see that this piece
will actually come in there (mouse clicking) and it'll attach here underneath. And then we'll have our
leg on the other end.
(wood clunks) Hehehe! And then that one-by'll run
right across the top there. It's like 63 and three quarters. Yup. (tape measure slides) So you can really see it
startin' to come together now. Now, I did not glue these down
because if they ever become 'cause, for one, they're one-by's and they may weather less well than the two-by material. (drill whizzing) So I wanna be able to take these up and replace 'em, if needed.
So I didn't glue these down. (drill knocks) But I am screwin' 'em at
two per intersection there. (upbeat music) (drill whizzing) (drill whizzing) Now we're cookin'! Wa-cha! (electrical static) Now we're gonna put this on. This is the leg on the long section. And we're gonna do it just
like we did the other one. We want the top at 17 inches (wood slides) from the bottom of the leg. Yep, get up there. So it's actually 10 and
three quarters of an inch, the bottom. And then we'll attach that
with glue and screws as well. (upbeat music) (drill clunks) (metal clinks) (drill whizzing) Where'd my tape measure go? So I kinda messed up. I wasn't thinking and drilled
these two holes on the outside when they're actually
supposed to go on the inside.
So don't do that. I'm gonna stick two screws in
there to cover the holes up. (air whoosh) All right. So right before
we start building the back So we're buildin' an angled back. And we want to go ahead
and join this together, even though it's gonna be
extremely hard to move. If you're buildin' this as a modular piece you would leave these
separate at this point. And then you could go
ahead and build your backs and just have it to where the backs would attach to the base separately. (wood sliding) So what we're gonna do is I'm
going to glue and screw into from this sideboard into this. And then from this piece into this, which is why we built
this piece like this. There's legs on the back
side to support the back. The middle right here in this
corner shouldn't need a leg because it's all tied together. Now, if you're not tyin' this together and you wanna make this two piece, you can certainly do that.
All you would need to do is put a leg right here on the corner and a leg under this. And it would be a two-piece and you could move 'em separately. But we're gonna build a one piece, 'cause we don't want
it to move separately. (upbeat music) (air whoosh) So I'm workin' on the back
pieces now or the back angles. You should have some drops from
earlier cuts on this stuff. You can use those. (wood clunking) This is a seven-degree angle and this is a 10-degree angle. You can see that there's a
little bit of difference there. This is fairly straight up. This is leaning back a little more. I think 10 degrees will be
a more comfortable angle. And so we're gonna go at 10 degrees.
These are 17 and a half inches tall. (air whoosh) So if you don't have a mitre saw and you still want those 10-degree angles you can use a speed square
to get the same angle, mark it and then cut
it with a circular saw. Just be real cautious about
gettin' that angle correct. But you can do it with a speed
square and a circular saw if you don't have a mitre saw. (upbeat music) (saw whizzing) (saw whizzing) So now it's time to start
puttin' the backs on.
We got the 10-degree angle
on the top and the bottom. And then we're gonna put
a top piece around the top to protect that end grain. It'll help it last longer
and it'll look better. We're just gonna set these on there, on these pieces that are on the edges, where the armrests are. Just gonna screw into
the armrest from the side and that'll secure it there. No need to secure it anywhere else. One here, one on the corner, one in the middle, one on the end. So one, two, three, four, five.
And the ones out here in the
center will be pocket holed down into the structure. So just to show you (wood clunking) I'm 200 pounds (laughs) (wood clunking) This corner is very robust. (electric static) So you don't have to worry about it, if you've put it together this way. You don't have to have
that leg sticking in here. Kinda takes away from the look of it. So before I start puttin' the backs on, I'm gonna go ahead and
take this opportunity to sand all of this. I'm gonna do 80-grit and then 120-grit and that's it.
And then I'm just gonna
kinda knock the edges off. I'll probably take my chamfer
bit here on these edges and hit these edges all the way around, just to give it a little more detail. You don't have to do that. You can just hit it with the sander and just kinda knock that rough edge off. Once the cushion's on there your leg shouldn't be
touchin' that anyway. (air whoosh) (upbeat music) (air whoosh) So I'm gonna go ahead and drill some pocket holes in the top.
So this is actually turned upside down. This is the top of my back rail. We'll put one pocket hole here, one here and that's to screw that
top face piece on with. And then some of them will have
pocket holes on the bottom, a couple of 'em will. And then the rest of 'em will be or the two end pieces won't
have it on the bOttom.
(upbeat music) (drill whizzing) I went ahead and sanded all these as well, just to make things easier. (drill whizzing) (air whoosh) So now we're gonna go
ahead and put the back on. These are cut at 10-degree angles. The ones that are attached to the arms on each side will have pocket
holes goin' up into the top. But none in the bottom because we're gonna attach
it to the arm itself. (wood clunks) And then on the corners,
they'll have pocket holes in the top and the bottom. (wood clunks) And then we'll have one in
the middle on the long side. Make sure that this back board
is even with this back slat so that if it's too far forward then your cushions won't fit. (wood slides) We better test those first. (cushion clunks) (sped-up speaking) (upbeat music) Perfecto, she says. (drill whizzing) (drill whizzing) (air whoosh) (drill whizzing) (drill whizzing) (air whoosh) So now it's time. We'll go
ahead put the top piece on to cap off these end grains.
If you leave that end
grain exposed like that it's just gonna soak up water. So I'd wanna cap it with this top board. I went ahead and drilled two pocket holes in one of these 45 mitres. And what that's gonna do (wood clunking) is when we get it up there you'll be able to attach these two so they don't flex over time. Because they're just
kinda standin' out there by themselves.
And then we'll attach from
underneath the pocket holes up into these top-face boards there. So I wanna make sure it's flush with the front side of this. And then you just wanna
make sure your corners are linin' up before
you attach everything. Now that I know
everything's gonna line up, I can go ahead and attach it. (upbeat music) (drill whizzing) (drill whizzing) (drill whizzing) (air whoosh) I got my top rail on. It's on there, pocket holed,
glued and screwed, man. That's a good place to rest your arm. It's at a good height to rest your arm. I'm five foot 11. We're gonna put the back rails on now to help support those back cushions. And they're just gonna
be two-by-sixes as well all the way around. Just gonna run two of 'em, spaced equally. And then we'll pocket hole them in there.
And then we'll be ready for
stain, right after we sand it. But, first, I'm gonna run the chamfer bit around this top piece, so that it matches all the side pieces. (air whoosh) So for the pocket holes
that are facing down you wanna make sure you fill those with I like to use a three-eighths inch dowel. You can buy pocket hole plugs, if you don't want to cut these.
But I usually cut about
a two-inch piece off, put glue on there. So that's gonna prevent water
from gettin' down in there and just standing. (mallet tapping) So I just drive those in there
until you hear it bottom out and then you just let that
glue dry for 30, 45 minutes, whatever it takes. And then I'll just take
this flush trim saw, cut if off smooth. And then we'll sand everything else so that it's plugged. And I'm gonna plug those
also, just for aesthetics. (upbeat music) (mallet tapping) (saw grinding) (air whoosh) Now it's time to put the back supports on to support those cushions. And these are just pocket
holed in from the back. I used a scrap piece of
two-by to space them out from the bottom of the bench and also between the
two boards themselves.
And then we come back and
fill those pocket holes with the same dowel method as before. (air whoosh) This thing is a beast to move! It took five of us to
get it to the backyard to get it ready for the staining. (air whoosh) I've got the whole thing
assembled and sanded. Now it's time to stain it or put a oil on. This is Australian Timber Oil from Cabot.
It's a Jaharrah Brown color
that we're gonna be usin'. It's made for outdoor furniture. This is what's gonna help
protect it from the elements, as much as possible. And I'm usin' my HomeRight
Finish Max sprayer. It's a very cheap, inexpensive sprayer for about a hundred bucks. Spray whatever you want with it, whether it be oil based
or even water based. (air whoosh) (upbeat music) And I just put one coat of
this Australian oil on there. Just be careful not to spray it too thick because it will run.
Once it's sprayed on there we let this dry for 24 hours before we
moved it onto the deck. (air whoosh) Surprisingly, with a lot of effort, four of us was able to
get it onto the deck. (air whoosh) (whooshing) (electrical static) Hey, click that box right there. It takes you to the next set of videos. Clicking that box is the best
way to support this channel. If you click the box, you get the big ole virtual fist bump. Also, if you haven't subscribed already go ahead and click that
subscribe button now. (mouse clicking) Click the bell icon next to it so you get notified of
all our new content. We've got a lot coming for you. We appreciate your support so much..