“Auto” Router Lift // 트리머(루터) “자동” 리프트

If you need drawings, please leave your email address in the comments. png drawing file. I left a link to the site where you can purchase the part in the description below. Please make the parts in the size shown on the drawing. The table saw "Crosscut Sled Jig" you see right now is uploaded in our DIY video. Please mark the drilling position according to the dimensions in the drawing. Attach 5 plywood with tape to pierce the same location at once.

Align 5 plywood accurately and pierce them at once. Drill 4 holes with a 6mm drill bit. Only three plywood are removed here. Drill a 15mm diameter hole on each side of the 3 pieces of the plywood for the LM8UU bearing. Drill one 10mm diameter hole for the T8 screw nut. Drill a 65mm hole in the center. Make an 80mm hole for only one of the remaining plywood. According to the dimensions of the drawing, the cutting positions are marked on 3 plywood.

Please cut according to the marked line. At this time, cut the center 4mm wide. Attach 3 cut plywood sheets to each other. The top plywood was first made from 170mm to 156mm by cutting both sides 7mm. The reason for cutting both sides by 7mm is that the maximum size of the laminate floor that will be presented later cannot cover 170, so I reduced it a little. Cut both male and female wings so that the width of the laminate floor is 178mm. Cut the laminate floor in 178 x 215mm. Mark the center on the laminate floor, attach a double-sided tape, and place the top plate exactly at the center. Drill 6mm holes in 4 places. I'm sorry, but the order has changed.~ You must drill a 100mm hole in the laminate floor first. Drill holes with a 6mm drill. At this point, a temporary 4mm thickness must be inserted between 4mm intervals and a hole must be drilled. Now let's do a temporary assembly. Tighten the 4 places in the order of 6mm bolt, washer, and nut.

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The top and bottom 6mm holes were expanded to 8mm to temporarily insert the linear shaft. Insert SHF8 part and tighten with screws. Remove the temporarily inserted linear shaft, and assemble SHF8 parts in the same way on the bottom plate. It's a part that gets a lot of pressure, so I reinforced it with screws. Insert the LM8UU bearing with the epoxy bond and attach it. Be careful not to let the bond get inside the bearing. KFL08 bearing is being assembled. You can use the same method as when assembling SHF8 parts. When assembling the T8 Screw nut, insert only one on the bottom side.

Inserting the two T8 screw nuts up and down will cause the threads to not continue and move stiffly. Insert the lead screw and tighten the wrench bolt. Put two linear shafts on both sides and tighten the wrench bolt. Assemble in the order of 6mm bolts, 2 washers, and nuts. Please tighten the nut a little bit. Due to the protrusion of the stepping motor, the groove was dug to a depth of 3mm on the fixture plate because it is not fully adhered to the fixing plate Tighten the 3mm screw in 4 places. Screw the motor vibration can be loosened, so tighten it tight. Insert a 5x8mm coupler into the motor shaft and tighten the wrench bolt. Then, insert the middle block and put the top plate together. When inserting the top plate, you must rotate the lead screw. Tighten the wrench bolt on the 5x8mm coupler. Don't be embarrassed because I'm going to disassemble it from the back for the final assembly. ^^ Please glue the side plate of the motor support. When working on the front panel of the motor support, it needs to be disassembled again, so only the top part is bonded.

Remove again and attach the front plate of the motor support. Now attach the bottom plate as well. There was a slight shake, so I added one LM8UU to each side. Now it's a real finished assembly. The router(trimmer) used the DCA AMP02-6 model. Tighten the bolt, two, and the nut. You will need to tighten the center axis at a later angle, so you will tighten it with a proper force. Please put in the middle block and put the top plate together. When inserting the top plate, you must rotate the lead screw. Tighten the 4 wrench bolts to the 5x8mm coupler. Make sure it moves smoothly and well. Tighten all wrench bolts that are not tightened. Check the perpendicularity of the center axis.

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If the right angle of the center axis fits well, tighten it tightly to prevent it from releasing the vibration. If the right angle doesn't fit well, fit it with thin paper. I use laminate flooring to make a replacement disk. The "Adjustable Circle Cutting Jig" that you see here is uploaded to our DIY video. Dig a groove of size 178 x 215mm and depth of 8mm in the workbench. The Adjustable Router Template Jig" that you see here is uploaded to our DIY video. Leave about 10mm on the edge and cut the middle. Here's the finished look. I connected the wires to the mini-breadboard according to the wiring diagram. The electronic circuit making part could not be included in the video. If you have any questions about this, please contact us in the comments. I implemented it on the breadboard, but you can solder it yourself. Switch-sized holes were drilled in the switch fixing block. The circuit looks a little complicated by implementing the function without using the MCU (Arduino), but for those who have difficulty with the MCU (Arduino), the program is made unnecessary. I left a link to the site where you can purchase the part in the description below.

After checking the circuit operation, clean the wiring and block the front panel. It works like this. I cut the front of the bottom plate about 20mm because it didn't fit well into the workbench. It's simple to use. First, raise the router(trimmer) with the switch. After you replace the bit blade, you can replace the replacement plate that fits the bit blade size.

Let's test the operation. I tested it by adjusting the bit blade height continuously little by little. I'm very satisfied with the result. Thank you for watching. Please subscribe and like ^^.

As found on YouTube