Now as we're working this along we're just gonna go from the larger diameter down to the smaller diameter …part it in, nice and deep …chuck, gripping it good and firm and secure …one, that's just a bit too big …steel wool, all the pieces there …top we have the cap, then we have the drive shaft that goes all the way through …a little bit of hand sanding around the tenon and it should be just fine that completes the mill But I think an egg is a great project to learn tool use and tool control you'll notice that the tool is pinched
between my thumb and my index finger and my index finger is used to glide along
the tool rest to control the depth of cut …you want to make sure that the cut is a little bit wider than the blade of the tool so that it doesn't bind if you look closely you can see that the bevel is rubbing on the wood right behind the cut which helps us control the cut …0000 steel wool, and we'll clean it up a little bit further to get it ready for finishing …this tends to give a more even transition of the finish all the way around just kinda work right on the corner there, then we'll take a quick measurement here that looks like it's about got it and now we can go ahead…
…our template again you can see how they're gonna fit right in there. I've got a little mark right there …work through all your grits up to about 600 and then we'll go to steel wool and work that, first while the lathe is rotating …just taking this spindle down to round …going to do some more turning. Again, keep the bevel on there and roll it right down in there …silicone adhesive on, work it into the center hole …you just need to put a little bit of pressure down on it and make sure that they're all touching the spacers here, and we'll go ahead and put it in our clamp and set it aside to dry …so that we can cut it to the proper length …in order to drill this hole the full depth you'll have to back the wood out of the
drill bit three or four times …focus on these final cuts.
I'm going to use my left hand to support the wood so that I don't get any vibration we'll take a closer look at the surface now now we'll go to the tip end and sand it lightly with 400 or 600 grit …into the hole that we've drilled – it should go in nice and snug, and there's our finished pen put a little glue on the outside, make sure again that we get a really good glue job Okay, I want to mill that so it's completely flat …these are roughing cuts, they can be fairly aggressive …make sure I don't get any tear out or be too aggressive with with my cutting angles …all the way up to about 600, and once you get to 600 I always like to end with steel wool – do it once when the lathe's going, then we'll make sure …we're gonna now give it a top coat of just a regular wax, we'll put over the top, helps give it a little bit of…
…turned out. The black dye along with the natural wood – it's just gorgeous. Now it's ready for some toothpicks The carving mallet is a relatively quick project, it's a useful project to have around the shop it doesn't take a long time to make and
we're going to use green wood so it's relatively inexpensive for these cuts we'll work from one end of the cylinder to the other I should probably admit here that this nice, wet apricot is actually pretty easy to work with we'll go to the 3/8" spindle gouge now and clear some of the wood out of the way on the handle end …one is that they they decorate the
handle up a bit, the other thing is it that it makes it so that the handle is easier to grip …finish this mallet we're going to apply a thick, heavy coat of paste wax which hopefully will seal the core so that it doesn't crack