You can't teach people anything. We can only help them to discover that they already have within them all that is to be learned. Galilée I am an individual amateur, please take this into account when viewing. Part 2 I took a little break for a few days following the end of this cup because I caught bronchitis so nothing to do with the thing at the time and in addition it was raining cats and dogs … for a while Shitty, crazy humidity, finally good… working in such conditions, even in the workshop, it's not fun, especially since we have the barn all open… so there you go, I'm attacking with a beautiful sun, a magnificent sun, end of the year, because here it is December 31, 2021! yes sir, 2021, next year it will be 2022.
Yeah… okay! What did I do ? so, this cup, this cup I finished it, I cleaned it. so I grated the top, to even out properly. We'll see if it goes well. what I also did, before attacking, was that I took my goat, there, I put the second beam in the lifting position, to be able to guide it easily to put it in place. Because otherwise I'm straining my back, that's how I hurt my back, trying to move one of these beams there, doing a wrong manipulation, yet at height on the trestles, but… I had lumbago some time ago. That's also why I'm very careful. so watch out for your back too! many of you often tell me, to be careful, because I carry heavy loads and I don't necessarily have the right positions well here I hurt my back…
That's what had to happen! at the same time you can also hurt your back by staying on your couch. I may even know more people who complain of back pain from just playing video games and doing nothing than… than people like me who move regularly. So I'm going to lift with my goat, and we'll be able to butt properly, and see if there's any unevenness or not, if I need to touch up or not. We can see that it has become cramped here huh! There really isn't much room left to work. But hey, I'm already lucky enough to be able to do this under cover, not everyone cuts beams under cover, huh! in general it happens outside, then when it rains we put a tarp over it.
I'm not bad, I'm not in the center of the beam, that's why it lifts the bottom and not the front, but, suddenly, it relieves me, and suddenly I manage to lift it, and really effortless. That's a mallet that my son made me for my birthday, he turned it, my big one only at 12 years old, and frankly, here it is, to be able to tap on my wood chisels, and I'm really proud, because my two boys have been tinkering since they were very young, and now it's starting to bear fruit, so there's room for improvement, but frankly for his age…
And even beyond that… I don't don't know how to do, that's it, the wood lathe I don't know how to do. He explains a lot of stuff to me, it's great. He has a YouTube channel, I don't know what idea he came up with to film himself, and put his videos on social networks… I don't know where he saw that? so if you want to go see a little bit of what he does, or if you have children who are interested in DIY, just to motivate them a little bit to tinker, well go see, it's called the "handyman budding", I'll put the link in the description.
Go give him a little hello from me, he will be really happy. It will make him happy to have some views, and some subscribers, that's it. We're not bad at all, we can see that it's going really well, on the stop. So frankly nickel. We have a little lag here. I'm almost flush there, it takes a bit to start again, there you go, that's good, you can see, there's a lag, but hey, there it is… it's the width beam that wants that, it's the sawing faults, me, I'm for nothing. We have a small shift at the bottom, and we are almost "on the edge", there. It's framework, we're not going to be maniacs, it'll be fine like that. I will be able to trace to make my keys. First, I machined shims. I made several in series. Oak wedges, it's old oak that I salvaged, it was my father-in-law who gave me a pile of oak planks … old oak.
These are the scraps that I recovered, that I had carefully put aside and that I will be able to reuse. (see the preparation in part 1) You can see that it has absolutely no faults, no knots, nothing at all, really ideal for doing this kind of… this kind of work. so I put on the dish, the breakdown that concerns me to begin with. I have my cutting template on which I made a mark at the axis of the two points here, with the perpendicular, so here. I will draw the axis here. The particularity that there will be on… on this piece there, is that we will shift the axis by two millimeters. why shift it by 2mm? since it is necessary to ensure that the hole of my key, when it is going to sink, they must not be opposite each other, so the hole would just be locked, this is not enough. you have to make sure that the top one is slightly offset from the bottom one.
So that in a way, when you go… when you go to insert the key, the top one comes to click, comes to be pulled. Tie-rod anchoring. She's just been dragged into the downstairs room, so it's locked, it doesn't move. To do that, you absolutely have to shift. So it's the bottom one which is shifted 2mm to the left, to ensure that when assembling, we have… we have a hole which is slightly shifted. I replace my piece, I wedge it, I put it on properly, I come to make a mark, a mark that I will report… here…here it is. And here I'm going to shift by 2 mm, 2 mm is the right compromise, it's not too much, it's not too little. It's not bad, and there now. I traced this, so I spot it. I mark 2 mm It is important to do it also on this side, even if it will not help me, since in fact, it is what will allow me to visualize correctly.
I put 2 mm here, I report here, so there is the axis. then … I made myself a template, where I made sure to place … it allows me to have in fact … you can see the two lines that I have here to always place … since it is a piece of wood that is tapered. the key is conical, it comes in, and by widening it comes to put itself in force. I did several tests, and it seemed to me to be, roughly, the right place here, to set up my piece of wood. I'll take the ratings I wrote down. so here I noted 17 and here I noted 18 and a half. I come to put in fact that corresponds: the 17, that corresponds to the part here, divided by two.
And the 18 and a half is the part here divided by 2, since I am at the axis. that's where I drew, my line there, it's the one that's on the axis here. This allows me to stop, here, on my guide lines, and I trace the other, on the other side, the same. You can see, by eye, that my key is slightly off. so the first key is traced. I can make the cut. so, there is another peculiarity of my jig, it is that the jig, the thickness is half of the wedge.
This will allow me to check my depth, that is to say that I will place my template, when I have dug, I will place my template in the hole, it must be "flush" which really allows you to check before assembly and it saves me unnecessary manipulations. To do this I have already preset my saw, since I will be using it with the rail, so I took into account the thickness of the rail. so I have to drill at 2 cm, since my key is 4 cm thick. so I use a blade… 48 teeth, since I'm going to cut against the grain, across the grain, I'm not in the direction of the grain of the wood in which case I would have a blade with few teeth.
Here I'm going to cut across the grain, so here you need a blade with a lot of teeth to saw. So there, it's a bit dangerous because I'm going to work on the fly. that is to say: I put down my rail and I'm going to go there without a clamp, without anything at all. So you have to be super careful not to get a "quick back" or something like that. The first line is good, I'm barely in, but I like it too tight and readjust as much as being too wide and its float. I'm going to do the second from the other side. I try to saw, to film, it's not easy huh! and now, I'm going to do everything from the small saw cuts check check check … to the top and then free the wooden slats with a chisel. we will see if it fits well. a bit of strength there, We're a little strong here, so I'm going to do a little saw cut above, there. that's nickel, it's barely in force. it has a little unevenness here, so I'm going to remove some material there again, it barely rises, but it will, it's good.
We can do the same for this one. so I put you up there… you saw how I proceeded, you just have to be careful not to shift, so I have to get on the axis, and that I put my hole in the right direction, huh, let's not go upside down, let's say… the cut, so as not to end up with a wide end here, and a narrow end on the top piece, you have to be careful to transfer the conical direction in the right direction…
Namely, the conical direction will go like this, so like that below. when I postpone … I postpone common sense. There, I picked it up because I have to switch it. so there, I take it back, and I return it. I'm on edge, here I am going to put it all back in place, and I'm going to be able to try to put the key. You can see here that a slight day ago, I have my unevenness, there I'm almost in tension, so I'm going to put a clamp here to flatten it properly, and I'm going to put my nail there with my stiff side mallet. here I pressed it without a clamp, it fits perfectly, so when assembling, I'm going to leave my key, big, like that, and once it's assembled on the frame, I'll come and cut it again. but there, if ever it bursts at the end, I want to have the margin to be able to… to be able to work. The assembly is quite correct, I am quite satisfied.
Well, now that it's done, I'll be able to take everything apart. I'm going to discard the part here, I'm going to release it to put it for the next cut just now. Now we will only take care of the ridge, which will be on the south side, to be able to make a chamfer on the upper parts. Then I'm going to make a chamfer on the lower parts, which will be in the air, not on what rests on the walls, I'm going to leave it whole, to have the most complete seat possible. But everything on the bottom, I'm going to make a little 45° chamfer. So we can see that we have the full length. I also took care to number my pieces of wood, so from 1 to 4, for each part. therefore ridge, "east" belly, "west" belly. They are named: ridge, and at each assembly, I numbered each part to easily find the assembly. With the direction, named like that, I will know exactly how to find myself there. We are going to move on to the sanding stage.
For sanding, I'm going to do it in two passes. A first pass to 40 grit, as I was able to do… for my rafters which are below. on the first pass with 40 grit . A second pass with 80 grit, to remove the scratches that come from the 40 grit . And third pass with a brush. We'll see that later. It's important to do it with 40 grit, I could do it with a hand plane, but the goal for me is really, like for the rafters, to remove as little material as possible. So to eliminate these traces of bandsaw, sawmill, and to eliminate these tasks, … to make it as smooth as possible. Then I'll be able to brush it to give it an "aged" look, that's it. There you go, so there, what I'm going to do is I'm going to do…
40 grit on the underside and the other side, okay? we'll do 80 grit next, I'll show you the finished surface in 80 grit, before moving on to the defender step for the chamfers. The beam is sanded on 3 sides, with 40 grit . Now I'm going to switch to 80 grit. so why 80 grit? well, it's to get rid of those little … hopefully you can see them properly, all those little scratches you can see there, which are inherent, of course, to 40 grit. counter-threads, it's to manage to get rid of the saw marks from the sawmill, and then what I did was I took over on … the entire length at 40 grit, in the direction of the grain, to already eliminate this kind of traces for the first time , there, which are perpendicular to the grain of the wood.
What I'm going to do now, with the 80 grit, is erase all those traces of coarse grit, to get the cleanest possible surface to my tip. You will see at grit 80, we do not have to eliminate deep saw marks. There, suddenly, it's really just a surfacing, it takes much less time. where it took me maybe an hour per side, especially on the wide sides, to be able to get those sawmill marks out, there it will take me five minutes tops. We can clearly see the difference between the 80 grain and the 40 grain . We can clearly see the break. ROUGH SAWING GRAIN 40 GRAIN 80 Next, I came to position my ridge purlin, so that it is turned upside down.
I took the opportunity to spend a little sanding, here and there, and I put it in place. Here is the bottom. What am I going to do to have a little extra aesthetic side? I'm going to make a small 45° chamfer, on the sharp edges, which are on the underside, and on the part here, of the tip exit. I also took the opportunity to score, so here. I went to take the coast on the gable, and here, the location of the wall, on this part there. wall + insulation … part of the insulation. So what I'm going to do here, I'm not going to make a bevel to get a maximum of… of material in fact, of my beam which rests on the wall. The chamfer has no use here. I'm going to chamfer that whole part. I materialized, here, my wall which is 40 cm, with here, the part that will come out of the wall on the kitchen side. This part, too, will be chamfered. To do this, I'm going to use a 45° chamfer cutter, a rolling phrase. I made this slice here, this slice there, and the other one below.
Now I will come here, here, here. It burned a little here, but that's okay. the wood will gray, and we will brush it, so anyway it will be eliminated. that 's good, I told you, we're going to go to the brushing stage. This is the machine I use to brush. It's a brass brush, which is relatively wide, and with this machine, we're going to eliminate, so it's much less obvious on oak than on resinous woods, with soft veins and hard veins, which are a lot more marked, here it's much less obvious, but it's also much more discreet.
With the brush, we will dig the soft veins of the wood, the white veins here, leaving, in relief, the darker veins, which are the hard veins. On this machine, I made some modifications, since it was not compatible with my vacuum cleaner. There is this original, which is provided for suction and I put a simple pvc flow connector in 40, so that my suction pipe is clipped in. And I did a little "one again" thing, since here it's a grinder base. I used the fixing holes of the original handles to fix a small … a small plastic casing … quickly cut in a plastic bottle, since here, behind there, there is a vent like that. This ventilation vent, when you lean to the side to watch the work, to see the brush working, but in fact you end up with the blower which comes up against the protective casing, which comes into your eyes and takes dust in the eyes. Thanks to this little DIY deflector, it spits on the front of the machine, and it allows me to be able to watch the brush work, to see if I have to dig more or less, without getting dust in my eyes.
In terms of suction, it's frankly very efficient, as efficient as my belt sander, so a very very efficient little machine, you'll see the result… I find it really great! Here is this machine, it's… Peugeot "EnergyBrush" it's called, here We have a small speed adjustment on it, it's numbered by the revolutions per minute of the engine, and we have a trigger with . .. switch lock, which allows you to work just by holding the handle. It's the machine that works, it's the weight of the machine, I press very lightly depending on whether I want to accentuate the digging or not, and you'll see it's really… very superficial, it doesn't dig in depth. It is the weight of the machine, strictly speaking, which works. So, as you can see here, we have a color change, the sanding gives the wood a rather white appearance, and here, with the brush, we achieve a really satin appearance, we restore the initial color of the wood a little bit .
Oak. so it's more of a brownish look. We just dig, we can see well here, and give this brushed aged look, which I find really super beautiful. From time to time I have one or two brush filaments that leave, but nothing extraordinary, I have already done several beams, I have already made four beams, this is the fifth with the same brush, and I don't think she was damaged much more than that. here, we will continue and I will show you once finished, the finished aspect. I'm also going to brush lightly on the edge, and there we're going to try to… to start a little bit there, to give that aged look. I hold it in one hand huh! I show you a little bit what it makes finished. Tell me what you think in the comments, if you prefer the sanded look or the brushed look… like that, but I really find that it gives a weathered look to the wood, and so it will go well with the look cottage rustic.
Now that we have passed the brushing stage, I will endeavor to trim the ridge purlin. What does it mean to dilute? it's a framework term, I'm not making it up, I've read a lot of documents, I tried to skim over everything, by studying really precisely, so as not to make any mistakes, at the framework level. It may be that I do, I'm not saying that I have the science infused, far, far from it. But I still studied all that, to really try to get as close as possible to what a craftsman would have done, knowing that I would still be far from it. then, dilard, that will consist… I am going to show you, because I made a diagram, suddenly, in miniature.
So we have our ridge purlin, here, with our rafters in support, and we can see what I was explaining to you: the rafters are assembled halfway down, and they will be pegged in their centre. There it is a screw, for the model otherwise it is pegged. What I did was go and take, with an inclinometer, the roof pitch of my house roof, as it is now. I came to a 40 degree incline. Now that we know the inclination of our roof, what is the taper? the thinning consists in removing a part of wood, at the level of the support of the rafters, why? if I take a normal ridge, which I don't remove, I will have an extremely weak support surface, that is to say, just on a support point which is the edge of the cutting angle of the wood. What will happen over the years? the weight of the roof, the insulation, the tiles and the weight of the snow, will cause my rafter, on such a weak support surface, to crush this line of wood there, it will be crushed, and this will generate disorders on the roof.
So the tapering, it consists in increasing this support surface, by removing this salient angle that there is on the ridge purlin. There I took 2.2 cm of support surface, I did several tests, I didn't I didn't do that at the … and that's what I considered to be a surface sufficient, which will be combined with my pinning at the top, to ensure that my roof does not move, my frame does not move. We can see here, that we have, once assembled, a support which is very stable, and which will make my frame very sandy. If I check, I have 40 degrees of inclination on both sides. So I'm pretty sure that when I go up my rafters, and I'm going to put them together, I'll have room to put my dowels. I'll have room to do everything, … so there, my rafter layout isn't right since my oak rafters will be a little higher, but that doesn't change anything about the geometry of the architecture.
I do not hide from you that I twisted my mind and my head for a moment before finding the right angles, and that I had to call on my super joker, who is my little wife, because there, I lost foot between 40°, 50 degrees… "the slope" as she says. so it was she who ended up coming to explain to me, as I was not very good in geometry at school. So it's also important to tell the children: work at school! it looks boring sometimes, but for once… at 43 ballets and we find ourselves like a… like a… like a what? like a what I found myself? like a CON, here … so here, so in short, all that's all good. so I reported everything, I made a little diagram for my template, to remind myself, because I'm not going to do this all day, so I marked my sagging.
I marked the dimensions with my ruler etc., I made a little diagram to find my bearings, to know where I am. it's on my template, so I'm free to look for my notes later. Because in general, we mark on a piece of paper, we shove it in a corner, and the paper disappears, we no longer know what we wrote down and we have to go back to the dimensions. there, if I lose the template, already … it will be more difficult to sow, come on! I set up all that, I explain to you in detail. 6.6 cm at the edge, which will allow me to have 1.5 centimeters, approximately, at the cut and 1.5 carried over with the inclination, that's 2.2 cm of support.
Some… some will tell me and you are right! why don't you use your circular saw? well because my circular saw, it can't go … why? because the tilt of the circular saw, it's like that… so if I want to cut like that, well actually… my saw would have to be like that to cut. that means that I have to put a beam on the other side, to lay the rail next to it… well, can you imagine… handling is just not possible for that, so it will be easier to jigsaw, I'll just have to take my time, go slowly to do it, and it should be fine what … well there, I must not be wrong eh I must not saw the wire.
And quite frankly … the cut is super clean, huh! I'm really happy, happy … for a jigsaw cut, sincerely there are some small traces of cuts, but then … no … sincerely, there uh! we are nickel! And on the other side … I hesitated for a long time to try the jigsaw, well, I tell you that I am really super satisfied with the result ! we'll get rid of everything and then I'll put it for you right, in the position where it should go. so there are some small…
Pfff, there's not even anything at all there isn't any defect in fact, we're really… here, it follows the… it follows the contour of the wood, the defects of the wood . here, we see that it's slightly 🙃☹️🙃☹️ but it follows the faults of the wood, the faults of the breakdown, but we are fine, on the designated angle, we are going to put it down…
Well, there you go … Like that, we has our support of a little more than 2 cm so we are about a third of support compared to the width of the rafter which will be there since it is a 7cm rafter, and we have 2,2 or 2 .3 cm so we have a third of support, which seems to me … which seems to me to be more than correct. I put myself under my little light to say goodbye to you I hope you will have enjoyed this series of videos, on the frame and the preparation of the battens, the rafters, and the breakdowns. thank you once again for following me, thank you for all your ultra positive, ultra … energizing comments, I assure you it feels a lot of good, and it's been a real pleasure to read you. we read all your messages, we try to answer everyone but… I assure you that it's a lot of work, but it's so nice, that's it, as long as we can do it we will do it, take 1h 2h 3 hours to answer you, because that… it's… here, it's thanks to you that this channel exists, and it's you who make me continue…
to move forward and always want to progress. If there wasn't this motivating element behind, all these people who push me, I don't know if I would have done… I might have put two fir beams, not planed… two ends of crates and then roll bouboule ! I'm surprised but anyway … we're going to say that good here well I'll tell you next time and then … and then … and then … I don't know what to say, see you next time, See you !.